Apples à la portuguese
Apples à la portuguese
1 dozen large apples,
moist sugar to taste,
1 small teacupful of cold water,
the grated rind of one lemon,
1 pint *) ≈ 570 ml. of milk,
4 eggs,
2 oz. *) ≈ 60 g. of loaf sugar.
Mode Peel, cut, and core the apples; put them into a lined saucepan with the cold water, and as they heat, bruise them to a pulp; sweeten with moist sugar, and add the grated lemon-rind. When cold, put the fruit at the bottom of a pie-dish, and pour over it a custard, made with the above proportion of milk, eggs, and sugar; grate a little nutmeg over the top, place the dish in a moderate oven, and bake from 25 to 35 minutes. The above proportions will make rather a large dish.
Time 25 to 35 minutes.
Average cost : 1s. 4d.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.
Seasonable from July to March.
Apple marmalade No. 1395,
6 or 7 good boiling apples,
½ pint of water,
6 oz. *) ≈ 180 g. of sugar,
2 oz. *) ≈ 60 g. of butter,
a little apricot jam.
Mode Pare the apples, and take out the cores without dividing them; boil up the sugar and water for a few minutes; then lay in the apples, and simmer them very gently until tender, taking care not to let them break. Have ready sufficient marmalade made by recipe No. 1395, and flavoured with lemon, to cover the bottom of the dish; arrange the apples on this with a piece of butter placed in each, and in between them a few spoonfuls of apricot jam or marmalade; place the dish in the oven for 10 minutes, then sprinkle over the top sifted sugar; either brown it before the fire or with a salamander, and serve hot.
Time From 20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples very gently, 10 minutes in the oven.
Average cost : 1s. 6d.
Sufficient for 1 entremets.
NoteThe syrup that the apples were boiled in should be saved for another occasion.
¾ lb. of short crust No. 1211 or 1212,
9 moderate-sized apples,
the rind and juice of ½ lemon,
½ lb. *) ≈ 225 g. of white sugar,
¾ pint *) ≈ 430 ml. of water,
a few strips of candied citron.
Mode Make a short crust by either of the above recipes; roll it out to the thickness of ½ inch, and butter an oval mould; line it with the crust, and press it carefully all round the sides, to obtain the form of the mould, but be particular not to break the paste. Pinch the part that just rises above the mould with the paste-pincers, and fill the case with flour; bake it for about ¾ hour; then take it out of the oven, remove the flour, put the case back in the oven for another ¼ hour, and do not allow it to get scorched. It is now ready for the apples, which should be prepared in the following manner: peel, and take out the cores with a small knife, or a cutter for the purpose, without dividing the apples; put them into a small lined saucepan, just capable of holding them, with sugar, water, lemon juice and rind, in the above proportion. Let them simmer very gently until tender; then take out the apples, let them cool, arrange them in the flanc or case, and boil down the syrup until reduced to a thick jelly; pour it over the apples, and garnish them with a few slices of candied citron.
may be made by rolling out the paste, cutting the bottom of a round or oval shape, and then a narrow strip for the sides: these should be stuck on with the white of an egg, to the bottom piece, and the flanc then filled with raw fruit, with sufficient sugar to sweeten it nicely. It will not require so long baking as in a mould; but the crust must be made everywhere of an equal thickness, and so perfectly joined, that the juice does not escape. This dish may also be served hot, and should be garnished in the same manner, or a little melted apricot jam may be poured over the apples, which very much improves their flavour.
Time Altogether, 1 hour to bake the flanc from 30 to 40 minutes to stew the apples very gently.
Average cost : 1s. 6d.
Sufficient for 1 entremets or side-dish.
Seasonable from July to March.
For the batter,
½ lb. *) ≈ 225 g. of flour,
½ oz. *) ≈ 15 g. of butter,
½ saltspoonful of salt,
2 eggs,
milk,
apples,
hot lard or clarified beef-dripping.
Mode Break the eggs; separate the whites from the yolks, and beat them separately. Put the flour into a basin, stir in the butter, which should be melted to a cream; add the salt, and moisten with sufficient warm milk to make it of a proper consistency, that is to say, a batter that will drop from the spoon. Stir this well, rub down any lumps that may be seen, and add the whites of the eggs, which have been previously well whisked; beat up the batter for a few minutes, and it is ready for use. Now peel and cut the apples into rather thick whole slices, without dividing them, and stamp out the middle of each slice, where the core is, with a cutter. Throw the slices into the batter; have ready a pan of boiling lard or clarified dripping; take out the pieces of apple one by one, put them into the hot lard, and fry a nice brown, turning them— when required. When done, lay them on a piece of blotting-paper before the fire, to absorb the greasy moisture; then dish on a white d'oyley, piled one above the other; strew over them some pounded sugar, and serve very hot. The flavour of the fritters would be very much improved by soaking the pieces of apple in a little wine, mixed with sugar and lemon-juice, for 3 or 4 hours before wanted for table; the batter, also, is better for being mixed some hours before the fritters are made.
Time About 10 minutes to fry them; 5 minutes to drain them.
Average cost : 9d.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Seasonable from July to March.
About 3 dozen good boiling apples,
½ lb. *) ≈ 225 g. of sugar,
½ pint *) ≈ 290 ml. of water,
the rind of ½ lemon minced very fine,
the whites of 2 eggs,
3 tablespoonfuls of pounded sugar,
a few sweet almonds.
Mode Peel and core a dozen of the apples without dividing them, and stew them very gently in a lined saucepan with ½ lb. of sugar and ½ pint of water, and when tender, lift them carefully on to a dish. Have ready the remainder of the apples pared, cored, and cut into thin slices; put them into the same syrup with the lemon-peel, and boil gently until they are reduced to a marmalade: they must be kept stirred, to prevent them from burning. Cover the bottom of a dish with some of the marmalade, and over that a layer of the stewed apples, in the insides of which, and between each, place some of the marmalade; then place another layer of apples, and fill up the cavities with marmalade as before, forming the whole into a raised oval shape. Whip the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, mix with them the pounded sugar, and cover the apples very smoothly all over with the icing; blanch and cut each almond into 4 or 5 strips; place these strips at equal distances over the icing sticking up; strew over a little rough pounded sugar, and place the dish in a very slow oven, to colour the almonds, and for the apples to get warm through. This entremets may also be served cold, and makes a pretty supper-dish.
Time From 20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples.
Average cost : 1s. 9d. to 2s.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Seasonable from July to March.
Apples;
to every lb. *) ≈ 450 g. of pulp allow
¾ lb. *) ≈ 340 g. of sugar,
½ teaspoonful of minced lemon-peel.
Mode Peel, core, and boil the apples with only sufficient water to
prevent them from burning; beat them to a pulp, and to every lb. of pulp
allow the above proportion of sugar in lumps. Dip the lumps into water;
put these into a saucepan, and boil till the syrup is thick and can be
well skimmed; then add this syrup to the apple pulp, with the minced
lemon-peel, and stir it over a quick fire for about 20 minutes, or until
the apples cease to stick to the bottom of the pan. The jelly is then
done, and may be poured into moulds which have been previously dipped in
water, when it will turn out nicely for dessert or a side-dish; for the
latter a little custard should be poured round, and it should be
garnished with strips of citron or stuck with blanched almonds.
Time From ½ to ¾ hour to reduce the apples to a pulp; 20 minutes
to boil after the sugar is added.
Sufficient1½ lb. of apples sufficient for a small mould.
Seasonable from July to March; but is best in September, October or
November.
2 dozen apples,
1½ pint *) ≈ 860 ml. of spring-water;
to every pint *) ≈ 570 ml. of juice allow
½ lb. *) ≈ 225 g. of loaf sugar,
½ oz. *) ≈ 15 g. of isinglass,
the rind of ½ lemon.
Mode Pare, core, and cut the apples into quarters, and boil them, with the lemon-peel, until tender; then strain off the apples, and run the juice through a jelly-bag; put the strained juice, with the sugar and isinglass, which has been previously boiled in ½ pint of water, into a lined saucepan or preserving-pan; boil all together for about ¼ hour, and put the jelly into moulds. When this jelly is nice and clear, and turned out well, it makes a pretty addition to the supper-table, with a little custard or whipped cream round it: the addition of a little lemon-juice improves the flavour, but it is apt to render the jelly muddy and thick. If required to be kept any length of time, rather a larger proportion of sugar must be used.
Time From 1 to 1½ hour to boil the apples; ¼ hour the jelly.
Average cost : 1s. 6d.
Sufficient for a 1½-pint mould.
Seasonable from July to March.
6 oz. *) ≈ 180 g. of rice,
1 quart *) ≈ 1 l. of milk,
the rind of ½ lemon,
sugar to taste,
½ saltspoonful of salt,
8 apples,
¼ lb. *) ≈ 110 g. of sugar,
¼ pint *) ≈ 140 ml. of water,
½ pint *) ≈ 285 ml. of boiled custard No. 1423.
Mode Flavour the milk with lemon-rind, by boiling them together for a few minutes; then take out the peel, and put in the rice, with sufficient sugar to sweeten it nicely, and boil gently until the rice is quite soft; then let it cool. In the mean time pare, quarter, and core the apples, and boil them until tender in a syrup made with sugar and water in the above proportion; and, when soft, lift them out on a sieve to drain. Now put a middling-sized gallipot in the centre of a dish; lay the rice all round till the top of the gallipot is reached; smooth the rice with the back of a spoon, and stick the apples into it in rows, one row sloping to the right and the next to the left. Set it in the oven to colour the apples; then, when required for table, remove the gallipot, garnish the rice with preserved fruits, and pour in the middle sufficient custard, made by recipe No. 1423, to be level with the top of the rice, and serve hot.
Time From 20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples; ¾ hour to simmer the rice; ¼ hour to bake.
Average cost : 1s. 6d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Seasonable from July to March.
8 good boiling apples,
½ pint *) ≈ 280 ml. of water,
6 oz. *) ≈ 180 g. of sugar,
a layer of apple marmalade No. 1395,
8 preserved cherries,
garnishing of apricot jam.
Mode Peel the apples, and, with a vegetable-cutter, push out the cores; boil them in the above proportion of sugar and water, without being too much done, and take care they do not break. Have ready a white apple marmalade, made by recipe No. 1395; cover the bottom of the dish with this, level it, and lay the apples in a sieve to drain, pile them neatly on the marmalade, making them high in the centre, and place a preserved cherry in the middle of each. Garnish with strips of candied citron or apricot jam, and the dish is ready for table.
Time From 20 to SO minutes to stew the apples.
Average cost : 1s. 3d.
Sufficient for 1 entremets.
Seasonable from July to March.
6 good-sized apples,
12 cloves,
pounded sugar,
1 lemon,
2 teacupfuls of water,
1 tablespoonful of gelatine,
a few drops of prepared cochineal.
Mode Choose rather large apples; peel them and take out the cores, either with a scoop or a small silver knife, and put into each apple 2 cloves and as much sifted sugar as they will hold. Place them, without touching each other, in a large pie-dish; add more white sugar, the juice of 1 lemon, and 2 teacupfuls of water. Bake in the oven, with a dish over them, until they are done. Look at them frequently, and, as each apple is cooked, place it in a glass dish. They must not be left in the oven after they are done, or they will break, and so would spoil the appearance of the dish. When the apples are neatly arranged in the dish without touching each other, strain the liquor in which they have been stewing, into a lined saucepan; add to it the rind of the lemon, and a tablespoonful of gelatine which has been previously dissolved in cold water, and, if not sweet, a little more sugar, and 6 cloves. Boil till quite clear; colour with a few drops of prepared cochineal, and strain the jelly through a double muslin into a jug; let it cool a little; then pour it into the dish round the apples. When quite cold, garnish the tops of the apples with a bright-coloured marmalade, a jelly, or the white of an egg, beaten to a strong froth, with a little sifted sugar.
Time From 30 to 50 minutes to bake the apples.
Average cost : 1s., with the garnishing.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Seasonable from July to March.
8 good sized apples,
3 oz. *) ≈ 90 g. of butter,
the rind of ½ lemon minced very fine,
6 oz. *) ≈ 180 g. of rice,
1½ pint *) ≈ 860 ml. of milk,
sugar to taste,
½ teaspoonful of grated nutmeg,
6 tablespoonfuls of apricot jam.
Mode Peel the apples, halve them, and take out the cores; put them into a stewpan with the butter, and strew sufficient sifted sugar over to sweeten them nicely, and add the minced lemon-peel. Stew the apples very gently until tender, taking care they do not break. Boil the rice, with the milk, sugar, and nutmeg, until soft, and, when thoroughly done, dish it, piled high in the centre; arrange the apples on it, warm the apricot jam, pour it over the whole, and serve hot.
Time About 30 minutes to stew the apples very gently; about ¾ hour
to cook the rice.
Average cost : 1s. 6d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Seasonable from July to March.
10 good-sized apples,
the whites of 10 eggs,
the rind of 1 lemon,
½ lb. *) ≈ 225 g. of pounded sugar.
Mode Peel, core, and cut the apples into quarters, and put them into a saucepan with the lemon-peel and sufficient water to prevent them from burning,— rather less than ½ pint. When they are tender, take out the peel, beat them to a pulp, let them cool, and stir them to the whites of the eggs, which should be previously beaten to a strong froth. Add the sifted sugar, and continue the whisking until the mixture becomes quite stiff; and either heap it on a glass dish, or serve it in small glasses. The dish may be garnished with preserved barberries, or strips of bright-coloured jelly; and a dish of custards should be served with it, or a jug of cream.
Time From 30 to 40 minutes to stew the apples.
Average cost : 1s. 6d.
Sufficient to fill a moderate-sized glass dish.
Seasonable from July to March.
6 oz. *) ≈ 180 g. of rice,
1 quart *) ≈ 1 l. of milk,
the rind of ½ lemon,
sugar to taste,
the yolks of 4 eggs,
the whites of 6,
1½ oz. *) ≈ 45g.of butter,
4 tablespoonfuls of apple marmalade No. 1395.
Mode Boil the milk with the lemon-peel until the former is well flavoured; then strain it, put in the rice, and let it gradually swell over a slow fire, adding sufficient sugar to sweeten it nicely. Then crush the rice to a smooth pulp with the back of a wooden spoon; line the bottom and sides of a round cake-tin with it, and put it into the oven to set; turn it out of the tin carefully, and be careful that the border of rice is firm in every part. Mix with the marmalade the beaten yolks of eggs and the butter, and stir these over the fire until the mixture thickens. Take it off the fire; to this add the whites of the eggs, which should be previously beaten to a strong froth; stir all together, and put it into the rice border. Bake in a moderate oven for about ½ hour, or until the soufflé rises very light. It should be watched, and served instantly, or it will immediately fall after it is taken from the oven.
Time ½ hour.
Average cost : 1s. 6d.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Seasonable from July to March.
7 good-sized apples,
the rind of ½ lemon or 4 cloves,
½ lb. *) ≈ 225 g. of sugar,
¾ pint *) ≈ 430 ml. of water,
½ pint *) ≈ 280 ml. of custard No. 1423.
Mode Pare and take out the cores of the apples, without dividing them, and, if possible, leave the stalks on; boil the sugar and water together for 10 minutes; then put in the apples with the lemon-rind or cloves, whichever flavour may be preferred, and simmer gently until they are tender, taking care not to let them break. Dish them neatly on a glass dish, reduce the syrup by boiling it quickly for a few minutes, let it cool a little; then pour it over the apples. Have ready quite ½ pint of custard made by recipe No. 1423; pour it round, but not over, the apples when they are quite cold, and the dish is ready for table. A few almonds blanched and cut into strips, and stuck in the apples, would improve their appearance.— See coloured plate Q1 .
Time From 20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples.
Average cost : 1s.
Sufficient to fill a large glass dish.
Seasonable from July to March.
10 good-sized apples,
the rind of ½ lemon,
6 oz. *) ≈ 180 g. of pounded sugar,
½ pint *) ≈ 280 ml. of milk,
½ pint *) ≈ 280 ml. of cream,
2 eggs,
whipped cream.
Mode Peel, core, and cut the apples into thin slices, and put them into a saucepan with 2 tablespoonfuls of water, the sugar, and minced lemon-rind. Boil all together until quite tender, and pulp the apples through a sieve; if they should not be quite sweet enough, add a little more sugar, and put them at the bottom of the dish to form a thick layer. Stir together the milk, cream, and eggs, with a little sugar, over the fire, and let the mixture thicken, but do not allow it to reach the boiling-point. When thick, take it off the fire; let it cool a little, then pour it over the apples. Whip some cream with sugar, lemon-peel, &c., the same as for other trifles; heap it high over the custard, and the dish is ready for table. It may be garnished as fancy dictates, with strips of bright apple jelly, slices of citron, &c.
Time From 30 to 40 minutes to stew the apples; 10 minutes to stir the custard over the fire.
Average cost : 1s. 6d.
Sufficient for a moderate-sized trifle.
Seasonable from July to March.
12 to 16 ripe apricots,
¼ lb. *) ≈ 110 g. of sugar,
1½ pint *) ≈ 855 ml.of milk,
the yolks of 8 eggs,
1 oz. *) ≈ 30 g. of isinglass.
Mode Divide the apricots, take out the stones, and boil them in a syrup made with ¼ lb. of sugar and ¼ pint of water, until they form a thin marmalade, which rub through a sieve. Boil the milk with the other ¼ lb. of sugar, let it cool a little, then mix with it the yolks of eggs which have been previously well beaten; put this mixture into a jug, place this jug in boiling water, and stir it one way over the fire until it thickens; but on no account let it boil. Strain through a sieve, add the isinglass, previously boiled with a small quantity of water, and keep stirring it till nearly cold; then mix the cream with the apricots; stir well, put it into an oiled mould, and, if convenient, set it on ice; at any rate, in a very cool place. It should turn out on the dish without any difficulty.
Time From 20 to 30 minutes to boil the apricots.
Average cost : 3s. 6d.
Sufficient to fill a quart mould.
Seasonable in August, September, and October.
NoteIn winter-time, when fresh apricots are not obtainable, a little jam may be substituted for them.
¾ lb. *) ≈ 340 g. of short crust No. 1212,
from 9 to 12 good-sized apricots,
¾ pint *) ≈ 430 ml. of water,
½ lb. *) ≈ 225 g. of sugar.
Mode Make a short crust by recipe No. 1212, and line a mould with it as directed in recipe No. 1391. Boil the sugar and water together for 10 minutes; halve the apricots, take out the stones, and simmer them in the syrup until tender; watch them carefully, and take them up the moment they are done, for fear they break. Arrange them neatly in the flanc or case; boil the syrup until reduced to a jelly, pour it over the fruit, and serve either hot or cold. Greengages, plums of all kinds, peaches, &c., may be done in the same manner, as also currants, raspberries, gooseberries, strawberries, &c.; but with the last-named fruits, a little currant-juice added to them will be found an improvement.
Time Altogether, 1 hour to bake the flanc, about 10 minutes to simmer the apricots.
Average cost : 1s. 6d.
Sufficient for 1 entremets or side-dish.
Seasonable in July, August, and September.
4 heaped tablespoonfuls of arrowroot,
1½ pint *) ≈ 855 ml. of milk,
3 laurel-leaves or the rind of ½ lemon,
sugar to taste.
Mode Mix to a smooth batter the arrowroot with ½ pint of the milk; put the other pint on the fire, with laurel-leaves or lemon-peel, whichever may be preferred, and let the milk steep until it is well flavoured. Then strain the milk, and add it, boiling, to the mixed arrowroot; sweeten it with sifted sugar, and let it boil, stirring it all the time, till it thickens sufficiently to come from the saucepan. Grease a mould with pure salad-oil, pour in the blanc-mange, and when quite set, turn it out on a dish, and pour round it a compôte of any kind of fruit, or garnish it with jam. A tablespoonful of brandy, stirred in just before the blanc-mange is moulded, very much improves the flavour of this sweet dish.
Time Altogether, ½ hour.
Average cost : 6d. without the garnishing.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
1 pint *) ≈ 570 ml. of new milk,
1¼ oz. *) ≈ 38 g. of isinglass,
the rind of ½ lemon,
¼ lb. *) ≈ 110 g. of loaf sugar,
10 bitter almonds,
½ oz. *) ≈ 15 g. of sweet almonds,
1 pint *) ≈ 570 ml. of cream.
Mode Put the milk into a saucepan, with the isinglass, lemon-rind,
and sugar, and let these ingredients stand by the side of the fire until
the milk is well flavoured; add the almonds, which should be blanched
and pounded in a mortar to a paste, and let the milk just boil up;
strain it through a fine sieve or muslin into a jug, add the cream, and
stir the mixture occasionally until nearly cold. Let it stand for a few
minutes, then pour it into the mould, which should be previously oiled
with the purest salad-oil, or dipped in cold water. There will be a
sediment at the bottom of the jug, which must not be poured into the
mould, as, when turned out, it would very much disfigure the appearance
of the blanc-mange. This blanc-mange may be made very much richer by
using 1½ pint of cream, and melting the isinglass in ½ pint of
boiling water. The flavour may also be very much varied by adding
bay-leaves, laurel-leaves, or essence of vanilla, instead of the
lemon-rind and almonds. Noyeau, Maraschino, Curaçoa, or any favourite
liqueur, added in small proportions, very much enhances the flavour of
this always favourite dish. In turning it out, just loosen the edges of
the blanc-mange from the mould, place a dish on it, and turn it quickly
over; it should come out easily, and the blanc-mange have a smooth
glossy appearance when the mould is oiled, which it frequently has not
when it is only dipped in water. It may be garnished as fancy dictates.
Time About 1½ hour to steep the lemon-rind and almonds in the milk.
Average cost : with cream at 1s. per pint, 3s. 3d.
Sufficient to fill a quart mould.
Seasonable at any time.
¼ lb. *) ≈ 110 g. of sugar,
1 quart *) ≈ 1 l. of milk,
1½ oz. *) ≈ 45 g. of isinglass,
the rind of ½ lemon,
4 laurel-leaves.
Mode Put all the ingredients into a lined saucepan, and boil gently
until the isinglass is dissolved; taste it occasionally, to ascertain
when it is sufficiently flavoured with the laurel-leaves; then take them
out, and keep stirring the mixture over the fire for about 10 minutes.
Strain it through a fine sieve into a jug, and, when nearly cold, pour
it into a well-oiled mould, omitting the sediment at the bottom. Turn it
out carefully on a dish, and garnish with preserves, bright jelly, or a
compote of fruit.
Time Altogether, ½ hour.
Average cost : 8d.
Sufficient to fill a quart mould.
Seasonable at any time.
Batter,
8 slices of bread and butter,
3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of jam.
Mode Make a batter, the same as for apple fritters No. 1393; cut some slices of bread and butter, not very thick; spread half of them with any jam that may he preferred, and cover with the other slices; slightly press them together, and cut them out in square, long, or round pieces. Dip them in the batter, and fry in boiling lard for about 10 minutes; drain them before the fire on a piece of blotting-paper or cloth. Dish them, sprinkle over sifted sugar, and serve.
Time About 10 minutes.
Average cost : 1s.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
2 calf's feet,
6 pints of water.
Mode The stock for jellies should always be made the day before it
is required for use, as the liquor has time to cool, and the fat can be
so much more easily and effectually removed when thoroughly set. Procure
from the butcher's 2 nice calf's feet: scald them, to take off the hair;
slit them in two, remove the fat from between the claws, and wash the
feet well in warm water; put them into a stewpan, with the above
proportion of cold water, bring it gradually to boil, and remove every
particle of scum as it rises. When it is well skimmed, boil it very
gently for 6 or 7 hours, or until the liquor is reduced rather more than
half; then strain it through a sieve into a basin, and put it in a cool
place to set. As the liquor is strained, measure it, to ascertain the
proportion for the jelly, allowing something for the sediment and fat at
the top. To clarify it, carefully remove all the fat from the top, pour
over a little warm water, to wash away any that may remain, and wipe the
jelly with a clean cloth; remove the jelly from the sediment, put it
into a saucepan, and, supposing the quantity to be a quart, add to it 6
oz. of loaf sugar, the shells and well-whisked whites of 5 eggs, and
stir these ingredients together cold; set the saucepan on the fire, but
do not stir the jelly after it begins to warm Let it boil about 10
minutes after it rises to a head, then throw in a teacupful of cold
water; let it boil 5 minutes longer, then take the saucepan off, cover
it closely, and let it remain ½ hour near the fire. Dip the jelly-bag
into hot water, wring it out quite dry, and fasten it on to a stand or
the back of a chair, which must be placed near the fire, to prevent the
jelly from setting before it has run through the bag. Place a basin
underneath to receive the jelly; then pour it into the bag, and should
it not be clear the first time, run it through the bag again. This stock
is the foundation of all really good jellies, which may be varied in
innumerable ways, by colouring and flavouring with liqueurs, and by
moulding it with fresh and preserved fruits. To insure the jelly being
firm when turned out, ½ oz. of isinglass clarified might be added to
the above proportion of stock. Substitutes for calf's feet are now
frequently used in making jellies, which lessen the expense and trouble
in preparing this favourite dish; isinglass and gelatine being two of
the principal materials employed; but, although they may look as
nicely as jellies made from good stock, they are never so delicate,
having very often an unpleasant flavour, somewhat resembling glue,
particularly when made with gelatine.
Time About 6 hours to boil the feet for the stock; to clarify it,— ¼ hour to boil, ½ hour to stand in the saucepan covered.
Average costCalf's feet may be purchased for 6d. each when veal is in full season, but more expensive when it is scarce.
HOW TO MAKE A JELLY-BAG.— The very stout flannel called
double-mill, used for ironing-blankets, is the best material for
a jelly-bag: those of home manufacture are the only ones to be
relied on for thoroughly clearing the jelly. Care should be
taken that the seam of the bag be stitched twice, to secure it
against unequal filtration. The most convenient mode of using
the big is to tie it upon a hoop the exact size of the outside
of its mouth; and, to do this, strings should be sewn round it
at equal distances. The jelly-bag may, of coarse, be made any
size; but one of twelve or fourteen inches deep, and seven or
eight across the mouth, will be sufficient for ordinary use. The
form of a jelly-bag is the fool's cap.
2 cow-heels,
3 quarts *) ≈ 3 l. of water.
Mode Procure 2 heels that have only been scalded, and not boiled; split them in two, and remove the fat between the claws; wash them well in warm water, and put them into a saucepan with the above proportion of cold water; bring it gradually to boil, remove all the scum as it rises, and simmer the heels gently from 7 to 8 hours, or until the liquor is reduced one-half; then strain it into a basin, measuring the quantity, and put it in a cool place. Clarify it in the same manner as calf's-feet stock No. 1411, using, with the other ingredients, about ½ oz. of isinglass to each quart. This stock should be made the day before it is required for use. Two dozen shank-bones of mutton, boiled for 6 or 7 hours, yield a quart of strong firm stock. They should be put on in 2 quarts of water, which should be reduced one-half. Make this also the day before it is required.
Time 7 to 8 hours to boil the cow-heels, 6 to 7 hours to boil the
shank-bones.
Average cost : from 4d. to 6d. each.
Sufficient2 cow-heels should make 3 pints of stock.
Seasonable at any time.
3 oz. *) ≈ 90 g. of isinglass or gelatine,
2 quarts *) ≈ 2 l. of water.
Mode . Put the isinglass or gelatine into a saucepan with the above proportion of cold water; bring it quickly to boil, and let it boil very fast, until the liquor is reduced one-half. Carefully remove the scum as it rises, then strain it through a jelly-bag, and it will be ready for use. If not required very clear, it may be merely strained through a fine sieve, instead of being run through a bag. Rather more than ½ oz. of isinglass is about the proper quantity to use for a quart of strong calf's-feet stock, and rather more than 2 oz. for the same quantity of fruit juice. As isinglass varies so much in quality and strength, it is difficult to give the exact proportions. The larger the mould, the stiffer should be the jelly; and where there is no ice, more isinglass must be used than if the mixture were frozen. This forms a stock for all kinds of jellies, which may be flavoured in many ways.
Time 1½ hour.
Sufficient, with wine, syrup, fruit, &c., to fill two moderate-sized
moulds.
Seasonable at any time.
NoteThe above, when boiled, should be perfectly clear, and may be mixed warm with wine, flavourings, fruits, &c., and then run through the bag.
ISINGLASS.— The best isinglass is brought from Russia; some of an inferior kind is brought from North and South America and the East Indies: the several varieties may be had from the wholesale dealers in isinglass in London. In choosing isinglass for domestic use, select that which is whitest, has no unpleasant odour, and which dissolves most readily in water. The inferior kinds are used for fining beer, and similar purposes. Isinglass is much adulterated: to test its purity, take a few threads of the substance, drop some into boiling water, some into cold water, and some into vinegar. In the boiling water the isinglass will dissolve, in cold water it will become white and "cloudy," and in vinegar it will swell and become jelly-like. If the isinglass is adulterated with gelatine (that is to say, the commoner sorts of gelatine,— for isinglass is classed amongst gelatines, of all which varieties it is the very purest and best), in boiling water the gelatine will not so completely dissolve as the isinglass; in cold water it becomes clear and jelly-like; and in vinegar it will harden.
Uncork the bottle; place it in a saucepan of hot water until the jelly is reduced to a liquid state; taste it, to ascertain whether it is sufficiently flavoured, and if not, add a little wine. Pour the jelly into moulds which have been soaked in water; let it set, and turn it out by placing the mould in hot water for a minute; then wipe the outside, put a dish on the top, and turn it over quickly. The jelly should then slip easily away from the mould, and be quite firm. It may be garnished as taste dictates.
To every quart *) ≈ 1 l. of water allow
2 lbs. *) ≈ 900 g. of loaf sugar;
the white of 1 egg.
Mode Put the sugar and water into a stewpan; set it on the fire, and, when the sugar is dissolved, add the white of the egg, whipped up with a little water. Whisk the whole well together, and simmer very gently until it has thrown up all the scum. Take this off as it rises, strain the syrup through a fine sieve or cloth into a basin, and keep it for use.
1 quart *) ≈ 1 l. of calf's-feet stock No. 1411,
½ lb. *) ≈ 225 g. of sugar,
½ pint *) ≈ 280 ml. of sherry,
1 glass of brandy,
the shells and whites of 5 eggs,
the rind and juice of 2 lemons,
½ oz. *) ≈ 15 g. of isinglass.
Mode Prepare the stock as directed in recipe No. 1411, taking care
to leave the sediment, and to remove all the fat from the surface. Put
it into a saucepan, cold, without clarifying it; add the remaining
ingredients, and stir them well together before the saucepan is placed
on the fire. Then simmer the mixture gently for ¼ hour, but do not
stir it after it begins to warm Throw in a teacupful of cold water,
boil for another 5 minutes, and keep the saucepan covered by the side of
the fire for about ½ hour, but do not let it boil again. In simmering,
the head or scum may be carefully removed as it rises; but particular
attention must be given to the jelly, that it be not stirred in the
slightest degree after it is heated. The isinglass should be added when
the jelly begins to boil: this assists to clear it, and makes it firmer
for turning out. Wring out a jelly-bag in hot water; fasten it on to a
stand, or the back of a chair; place it near the fire with a basin
underneath it, and run the jelly through it. Should it not be perfectly
clear the first time, repeat the process until the desired brilliancy is
obtained. Soak the moulds in water, drain them for half a second, pour
in the jelly, and put it in a cool place to set. If ice is at hand,
surround the moulds with it, and the jelly will set sooner, and be
firmer when turned out. In summer it is necessary to have ice in which
to put the moulds, or the cook will be, very likely, disappointed, by
her jellies being in too liquid a state to turn out properly, unless a
great deal of isinglass is used. When wanted for table, dip the moulds
in hot water for a minute, wipe the outside with a cloth, lay a dish on
the top of the mould, turn it quickly over, and the jelly should slip
out easily. It is sometimes served broken into square lumps, and piled
high in glasses. Earthenware moulds are preferable to those of pewter or
tin, for red jellies, the colour and transparency of the composition
being often spoiled by using the latter.
To make this jelly more economically, raisin wine may be substituted for the sherry and brandy, and the stock made from cow-heels, instead of calf's feet.
Time 20 minutes to simmer the jelly, ½ hour to stand covered.
Average cost : reckoning the feet at 6d. each, 3s. 6d.
Sufficient to fill two 1½-pint moulds.
Seasonable at any time.
NoteAs lemon-juice, unless carefully strained, is liable to make the jelly muddy, see that it is clear before it is added to the other ingredients. Omit the brandy when the flavour is objected to.
SHERRY.— There are several kinds of sherry, as pale and brown, and there are various degrees of each. Sherry is, in general, of an amber-colour, and, when good, has a fine aromatic odour, with something of the agreeable bitterness of the peach kernel. When new, it is harsh and fiery, and requires to be mellowed in the wood for four or five years. Sherry has of late got much into fashion in England, from the idea that it is more free from acid than other wines; but some careful experiments on wines do not fully confirm this opinion.
½ lb. *) ≈ 225 g. of puff-paste No. 1205;
apricot, or any kind of preserve that may be preferred;
hot lard.
Mode Cannelons which are made of puff-paste rolled very thin, with jam inclosed, and cut out in long narrow rolls or puffs, make a very pretty and elegant dish. Make some good puff-paste, by recipe No. 1205; roll it out very thin, and cut it into pieces of an equal size, about 2 inches wide and 8 inches long; place upon each piece a spoonful of jam, wet the edges with the white of egg, and fold the paste over twice slightly press the edges together, that the jam may not escape in the frying; and when all are prepared, fry them in boiling lard until of a nice brown, letting them remain by the side of the fire after they are coloured, that the paste may be thoroughly done. Drain them before the fire, dish on a d'oyley, sprinkle over them sifted sugar, and serve. These cannelons are very delicious made with fresh instead of preserved fruit, such as strawberries, raspberries, or currants: it should be laid in the paste, plenty of pounded sugar sprinkled over, and folded and fried in the same manner as stated above.
Time About 10 minutes.
Average cost : 1s.
Sufficient,-½ lb. of paste for a moderate-sized dish of cannelons.
Seasonable, with jam, at any time.
A few slices of rather stale bread ½ inch thick,
clarified butter,
apple marmalade made by recipe No. 1395,
with about 2 dozen apples,
½ glass of sherry.
Mode Cut a slice of bread the same shape as the bottom of a plain
round mould, which has been well buttered, and a few strips the height
of the mould, and about 1½ inch wide; dip the bread in clarified
butter (or spread it with cold butter, if not wanted quite so rich);
place the round piece at the bottom of the mould, and set the narrow
strips up the sides of it, overlapping each other a little, that no
juice from the apples may escape, and that they may hold firmly to the
mould. Brush the interior over with white of egg (this will assist to
make the case firmer); fill it with apple marmalade made by recipe No.
1395, with the addition of a little sherry, and cover them with a round
piece of bread, also brushed over with egg, the same as the bottom;
slightly press the bread down, to make it adhere to the other pieces;
put a plate on the top, and bake the charlotte in a brisk oven, of a
light colour. Turn it out on the dish, strew sifted sugar over the top,
and pour round it a little melted apricot jam.
Time 40 to 50 minutes.
Average cost : 1s. 9d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Seasonable from July to March.
½ lb. *) ≈ 225 g. of flour,
¼ lb. *) ≈ 110 g. of butter,
¼ lb. *) ≈ 110 g. of powdered sugar,
½ teaspoonful of baking-powder,
1 egg, milk,
1 glass of raisin-wine,
apple marmalade No. 1395,
¼ pint *) ≈ 140 ml. of cream,
2 dessertspoonfuls of pounded sugar,
2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice.
Mode Make a cake with the flour, butter, sugar, and baking-powder; moisten with the egg and sufficient milk to make it the proper consistency, and bake it in a round tin. When cold, scoop out the middle, leaving a good thickness all round the sides, to prevent them breaking; take some of the scooped-out pieces, which should be trimmed into neat slices; lay them in the cake, and pour over sufficient raisin-wine, with the addition of a little brandy, if approved, to soak them well. Have ready some apple marmalade, made by recipe No. 1395; place a layer of this over the soaked cake, then a layer of cake and a layer of apples; whip the cream to a froth, mixing with it the sugar and lemon-juice; pile it on the top of the charlotte, and garnish it with pieces of clear apple jelly. This dish is served cold, but may be eaten hot, by omitting the cream, and merely garnishing the top with bright jelly just before it is sent to table.
Time 1 hour to bake the cake.
Average cost : 2s.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Seasonable from July to March.
9 slices of bread and butter,
about 6 good-sized apples,
1 tablespoonful of minced lemon-peel,
2 tablespoonfuls of juice,
moist sugar to taste.
Mode Butter a pie-dish; place a layer of bread and butter, without the crust, at the bottom; then a layer of apples, pared, cored, and cut into thin slices; sprinkle over these a portion of the lemon-peel and juice, and sweeten with moist sugar. Place another layer of bread and butter, and then one of apples, proceeding in this manner until the dish is full; then cover it up with the peel of the apples, to preserve the top from browning or burning; bake in a brisk oven for rather more than ¾ hour; torn the charlotte on a dish, sprinkle sifted sugar over, and serve.
Time ¾ hour.
Average cost : 9d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Seasonable from July to March.
About 18 Savoy biscuits,
¾ pint *) ≈ 430 ml. of cream,
flavouring of vanilla, liqueurs, or wine,
1 tablespoonful of pounded sugar,
½ oz. *) ≈ 15 g. of isinglass.
Mode Procure about 18 Savoy biscuits, or ladies'-fingers, as they are sometimes called; brush the edges of them with the white of an egg, and line the bottom of a plain round mould, placing them like a star or rosette. Stand them upright all round the edge; carefully put them so closely together that the white of the egg connects them firmly, and place this case in the oven for about 5 minutes, just to dry the egg. Whisk the cream to a stiff froth, with the sugar, flavouring, and melted isinglass; fill the charlotte with it, cover with a slice of sponge-cake cut in the shape of the mould; place it in ice, where let it remain till ready for table; then turn it on a dish, remove the mould, and serve. 1 tablespoonful of liqueur of any kind, or 4 tablespoonfuls of wine, would nicely flavour the above proportion of cream. For arranging the biscuits in the mould, cut them to the shape required, so that they fit in nicely, and level them with the mould at the top, that, when turned out, there may be something firm to rest upon. Great care and attention is required in the turning out of this dish, that the cream does not burst the case; and the edges of the biscuits must have the smallest quantity of egg brushed over them, or it would stick to the mould, and so prevent the charlotte from coming away properly.
Time 5 minutes in the oven.
Average cost : with cream at 1s. per pint, 2s.
Sufficient for 1 charlotte.
Seasonable at any time.
4 sponge-cakes,
jam,
¾ pint *) ≈ 430 ml. of cream,
sugar to taste,
the juice of ½ lemon,
¼ glass of sherry,
1¼ *) ≈ 38 g. oz. of isinglass.
Mode Cut the sponge-cakes into thin slices; place two together, with
preserve between them, and pour over them a small quantity of sherry
mixed with a little brandy. Sweeten and flavour the cream with the
lemon-juice and sherry; add the isinglass, which should be dissolved in
a little water, and beat up the cream well. Place a little in an oiled
mould; arrange the pieces of cake in the cream; then fill the mould with
the remainder; let it cool, and turn it out on a dish. By oiling the
mould, the cream will have a much smoother appearance, and will turn out
more easily than when merely dipped in cold water.
Average cost : 3s. 6d.
Sufficient to fill a 1½ pint mould.
Seasonable at any time.
1 pint *) ≈ 70 ml. of milk,
5 eggs,
3 oz. *) ≈ 90 g. of loaf sugar,
3 laurel-leaves, or the rind of 4 lemon, or a few drops of essence of vanilla,
1 tablespoonful of brandy.
Mode Put the milk into a lined saucepan, with the sugar, and
whichever of the above flavourings may be preferred (the lemon-rind
flavours custards most deliciously), and let the milk steep by the side
of the fire until it is well flavoured. Bring it to the point of
boiling, then strain it into a basin; whisk the eggs well, and, when the
milk has cooled a little, stir in the eggs, and strain this mixture
into a jug. Place this jug in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire;
keep stirring the custard one way until it thickens; but on no account
allow it to reach the boiling-point, as it will instantly curdle and be
full of lumps. Take it off the fire, stir in the brandy, and, when this
is well mixed with the custard, pour it into glasses, which should be
rather more than three-parts full; grate a little nutmeg over the top,
and the dish is ready for table. To make custards look and eat better,
ducks' eggs should be used, when obtainable; they add very much to the
flavour and richness, and so many are not required as of the ordinary
eggs, 4 ducks' eggs to the pint of milk making a delicious custard. When
desired extremely rich and good, cream should be substituted for the
milk, and double the quantity of eggs used, to those mentioned, omitting
the whites.
Time ½ hour to infuse the lemon-rind, about 10 minutes to stir the
custard.
Average cost : 8d.
Sufficient to fill 8 custard-glasses.
Seasonable at any time.
1½ oz. *) ≈ 45 g. of whole ginger,
¼ pint *) ≈ 140 ml. of whiskey,
3 lbs. *) ≈ 1350 g. of apples,
2 lbs. *) ≈ 900 g. of white sugar,
the juice of 2 lemons.
Mode Bruise the ginger, put it into a small jar, pour over sufficient whiskey to cover it, and let it remain for 3 days; then cut the apples into thin slices, after paring and coring them; add the sugar and the lemon-juice, which should he strained; and simmer all together very gently until the apples are transparent, but not broken. Serve cold, and garnish the dish with slices of candied lemon-peel or preserved ginger.
Time 3 days to soak the ginger; about ¾ hour to simmer the apples
very gently.
Average cost : 2s, 6d.
Sufficient for 3 dishes.
Seasonable from July to March.
2 eggs,
2 oz. *) ≈ 60 g. of butter,
2 oz. *) ≈ 60 g. of sifted sugar,
2 oz. *) ≈ 60 g. of flour,
½ pint *) ≈ 180 ml. of new milk.
Mode Beat the eggs thoroughly, and put them into a basin with the butter, which should be beaten to a cream; stir in the sugar and flour, and when these ingredients are well mixed, add the milk; keep stirring and beating the mixture for a few minutes; put it on buttered plates, and bake in a quick oven for 20 minutes. Serve with a cut lemon and sifted sugar, or pile the pancakes high on a dish, with a layer of preserve or marmalade between each.
Time 20 minutes.
Average cost : 7d.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
1½ oz. *) ≈ 45 g. of isinglass,
the rind and juice of 1 lemon,
1 pint *) ≈ 570 g. of water,
4 eggs,
1 pint *) ≈ 570 ml. of sherry, Madeira, or raisin-wine;
sifted sugar to taste.
Mode Put the water, isinglass, and lemon-rind into a lined saucepan, and simmer gently until the isinglass is dissolved; strain this into a basin, stir in the eggs, which should be well beaten, the lemon-juice, which should be strained, and the wine; sweeten to taste with pounded sugar, mix all well together, pour it into a jug, set this jug in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire, and keep stirring it one way until it thickens; but take care that it does not boil Strain it into a mould that has been oiled or laid in water for a short time, and put it in a cool place to set. A tablespoonful of brandy stirred in just before it is poured into the mould, improves the flavour of this dish: it is better if made the day before it is required for table.
Time ¼ hour to simmer the isinglass; about ¼ hour to stir the
mixture over the fire.
Average cost : 4s. 6d., if made with sherry; less with raisin-wine.
Sufficient to fill a quart mould.
Seasonable at any time.
PALE SHERRIES are made from the same grapes as brown. The latter are coloured by an addition of some cheap must, or wine which has been boiled till it has acquired a deep-brown tint. Pale sherries were, some time ago, preferred in England, being supposed most pure; but the brown are preferred by many people. The inferior sherries exported to England are often mixed with a cheap and light wine called Moguer, and are strengthened in the making by brandy; but too frequently they are adulterated by the London dealers.
4 eggs,
3 teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar,
1 teaspoonful of flour,
3 oz. *) ≈ 90 g. of the best chocolate.
Mode Break the eggs, separating the whites from the yolks, and put them into different basins; add to the yolks the sugar, flour, and chocolate, which should be very finely grated, and stir these ingredients for 5 minutes. Then well whisk the whites of the eggs in the other basin, until they are stiff, and, when firm, mix lightly with the yolks, till the whole forms a smooth and light substance; butter a round cake-tin, put in the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven from 15 to 20 minutes. Pin a white napkin round the tin, strew sifted sugar over the top of the soufflé, and send it immediately to table. The proper appearance of this dish depends entirely on the expedition with which it is served, and some cooks, to preserve its lightness, hold a salamander over the soufflé until it is placed on the table. If allowed to stand after it comes from the oven, it will be entirely spoiled, as it falls almost immediately.
Time 15 to 20 minutes.
Average cost : 1s.
Sufficient for a moderate-sized soufflé.
Seasonable at any time.
½ pint *) ≈ 180 ml. of milk,
½ pint *) ≈ 180 ml. of cream,
2 oz. *) ≈ 60 g. of flour,
3 oz. *) ≈ 90 g. of pounded sugar,
6 eggs,
2 oz. *) ≈ 60 g. of butter,
puff-paste,
flavouring of essence of vanilla.
Mode Mix the flour to a smooth batter, with the milk; stir in the cream, sugar, the eggs, which should be well whisked, and the butter, which should be beaten to a cream. Put in some essence of vanilla, drop by drop, until the mixture is well flavoured; line some dariole-moulds with puff-paste, three-parts fill them with the batter, and bake in a good oven from 25 to 35 minutes. Turn them out of the moulds on a dish, without breaking them; strew over sifted sugar, and serve. The flavouring of the darioles may be varied by substituting lemon, cinnamon, or almonds, for the vanilla.
Time 25 to 35 minutes.
Average cost : 1s. 8d.
Sufficient to fill 6 or 7 dariole-moulds.
Seasonable at any time.
½ pint *) ≈ 185 ml. of milk,
2 tablespoonfuls of flour,
4 eggs,
3 tablespoonfuls of boiled rice,
3 tablespoonfuls of currants,
sugar to taste,
a very little grated nutmeg,
hot lard or clarified dripping.
Mode Put the milk into a basin with the flour, which should previously be rubbed to a smooth batter with a little cold milk; stir these ingredients together; add the well-whisked eggs, the rice, currants, sugar, and nutmeg. Beat the mixture for a few minutes, and, if not sufficiently thick, add a little more boiled rice; drop it, in small quantities, into a pan of boiling lard or clarified dripping; fry the fritters a nice brown, and, when done, drain them on a piece of blotting-paper, before the fire. Pile them on a white d'oyley, strew over sifted sugar, and serve them very hot. Send a cut lemon to table with them.
Time From 8 to 10 minutes to fry the fritters.
Average cost : 9d.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
3 oz. *) ≈ 90 g. of grated chocolate,
¼ lb. *) ≈ 110 g. of sugar,
1½ pint *) ≈ 855 ml. of cream,
½ oz. *) ≈ 15 g. of clarified isinglass,
the yolks of 6 eggs.
Mode Beat the yolks of the eggs well; put them into a basin with the
grated chocolate, the sugar, and 1 pint of the cream; stir these
ingredients well together, pour them into a jug, and set this jug in a
saucepan of boiling water; stir it one way until the mixture thickens,
but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle. Strain the cream
through a sieve into a basin; stir in the isinglass and the other ½
pint of cream, which should be well whipped; mix all well together, and
pour it into a mould which has been previously oiled with the purest
salad-oil, and, if at hand, set it in ice until wanted for table.
Time About 10 minutes to stir the mixture over the fire.
Average cost : 4s. 6d, with cream at 1s. per pint.
Sufficient to fill a quart mould.
Seasonable at any time.
2 eggs,
3 oz. *) ≈ 90 g. of butter,
3 oz. *) ≈ 90 g. of flour,
3 oz. *) ≈ 90 g. of pounded sugar.
Mode Well whisk the eggs; put them into a basin, and stir to them the butter, which should be beaten to a cream; add the flour and sifted sugar gradually, and then mix all well together. Butter a baking-sheet, and drop on it a teaspoonful of the mixture at a time, leaving a space between each. Bake in a cool oven; watch the pieces of paste, and, when half done, roll them up like wafers, and put in a small wedge of bread or piece of wood, to keep them in shape. Return them to the oven until crisp. Before serving, remove the bread, put a spoonful of preserve in the widest end, and fill up with whipped cream. This is a very pretty and ornamental dish for the supper-table, and is very nice and very easily made.
Time Altogether 20 to 25 minutes.
Average cost : exclusive of the preserve and cream, 7d.
Sufficient for a nice-sized dish.
Seasonable at any time.
The yolks of 4 eggs,
1 pint *) ≈ 570 ml. of cream,
3 oz. *) ≈ 90 g. of preserved ginger,
2 dessertspoonfuls of syrup,
sifted sugar to taste,
1 oz. *) ≈ 30 g. of isinglass.
Mode Slice the ginger finely; put it into a basin with the syrup, the well-beaten yolks of eggs, and the cream; mix these ingredients well together, and stir them over the fire for about 10 minutes, or until the mixture thickens; then take it off the fire, whisk till nearly cold, sweeten to taste, add the isinglass, which should be melted and strained, and serve the cream in a glass dish. It may be garnished with slices of preserved ginger or candied citron.
Time About 10 minutes to stir the cream over the fire.
Average cost : with cream at 1s. per pint, 3s. 6d.
Sufficient for a good-sized dish.
Seasonable at any time.
PRESERVED GINGER comes to us from the West Indies. It is made by scalding the roots when they are green and full of sap, then peeling them in cold water, and putting them into jars, with a rich syrup; in which state we receive them. It should be chosen of a bright-yellow colour, with a little transparency: what is dark-coloured, fibrous, and stringy, is not good. Ginger roots, fit for preserving, and in size equal to West Indian, have been produced in the Royal Agricultural Garden in Edinburgh.
Green gooseberries;
to every pint *) ≈ 570 ml. of pulp add
1 pint *) ≈ 570 ml. of milk, or
½ pint *) ≈ 285 g. of cream and
½ pint *) ≈ 285 ml. of milk; <
sugar to taste.
Mode Cut the tops and tails off the gooseberries; put them into a jar, with 2 tablespoonfuls of water and a little good moist sugar; set this jar in a saucepan of boiling water, and let it boil until the fruit is soft enough to mash. When done enough, beat it to a pulp, work this pulp through a colander, and stir to every pint the above proportion of milk, or equal quantities of milk and cream. Ascertain if the mixture is sweet enough, and put in plenty of sugar, or it will not be eatable; and in mixing the milk and gooseberries, add the former very gradually to these: serve in a glass dish, or in small glasses. This, although a very old-fashioned and homely dish, is, when well made, very delicious, and, if properly sweetened, a very suitable preparation for children.
Time From ¾ to 1 hour.
Average cost : 6d. per pint, with milk.
SufficientA pint of milk and a pint of gooseberry pulp for 5 or 6 children.
Seasonable in May and June.
1 quart *) ≈ 1 l. of gooseberries,
sugar to taste,
1 pint *) ≈ 570 ml of custard No. 1423,
a plateful of whipped cream.
Mode Put the gooseberries into a jar, with sufficient moist sugar to sweeten them, and boil them until reduced to a pulp. Put this pulp at the bottom of a trifle-dish; pour over it a pint of custard made by recipe No. 1423, and, when cold, cover with whipped cream. The cream should be whipped the day before it is wanted for table, as it will then be so much firmer and more solid. The dish may be garnished as fancy dictates.
Time About ¾ hour to boil the gooseberries.
Average cost : 1s. 6d.
Sufficient for 1 trifle.
Seasonable in May and June.
3 tablespoonfuls of flour,
boiling water,
the yolks of 4 eggs,
the whites of 2,
hot lard or clarified dripping,
jam.
Mode Put the flour into a basin, and pour over it sufficient boiling water to make it into a stiff paste, taking care to stir and beat it well, to prevent it getting lumpy. Leave it a little time to cool, and then break into it (without beating them at first) the yolks of 4 eggs and the whites of 2, and stir and beat all well together. Have ready some boiling lard or butter; drop a dessertspoonful of batter in at a time, and fry the fritters of a light brown. They should rise so much as to be almost like balls. Serve on a dish, with a spoonful of preserve or marmalade dropped in between each fritter. This is an excellent dish for a hasty addition to dinner, if a guest unexpectedly arrives, it being so easily and quickly made, and it is always a great favourite.
Time From 5 to 8 minutes to fry the fritters.
Average cost : exclusive of the jam, 5d.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
1 quart *) ≈ 1 l. of milk,
the rind of ½ large lemon,
sugar to taste,
5 heaped tablespoonfuls of rice-flour,
1 oz. *) ≈ 15 g. of sweet almonds,
½ pint *) ≈ 185 ml. of custard.
Mode Boil the milk and lemon-rind together until the former is well flavoured; take out the lemon-rind and stir in the rice-flour, which should first be moistened with cold milk, and add sufficient loaf sugar to sweeten it nicely. Boil gently for about 5 minutes, and keep the mixture stirred; take it off the fire, let it cool a little, and pour it into a glass dish. When cold, cut the rice out in the form of a star, or any other shape that may be preferred; take out the spare rice, and fill the space with boiled custard. Blanch and cut the almonds into strips; stick them over the trifle, and garnish it with pieces of brightly-coloured jelly, or preserved fruits, or candied citron.
Time ¼ hour to simmer the milk, 5 minutes after the rice is added.
Average cost : 1s.
Sufficient for 1 trifle.
Seasonable at any time.
THE CITRON.— The citron belongs to the same species as the
lemon, being considered only as a variety, the distinction
between them not being very great. It is larger, and is less
succulent, but more acid: with a little artificial heat, the
citron comes to as great perfection in England as in Spain and
Italy. The fruit is oblong and about five or six inches in
length. The tree is thorny. The juice forms an excellent
lemonade with sugar and water; its uses in punch, negus, and in
medicine, are well known. The rind is very thick, and, when
candied with sugar, forms an excellent sweetmeat. There are
several varieties cultivated in England, one of which is termed
the Forbidden Fruit.
1 pint *) ≈ 570 ml. of milk,
4 pint *) ≈ 2280 ml. of cream,
sugar to taste,
1 oz. *) ≈ 30 g. of isinglass,
1 lemon,
the yolks of 4 eggs.
Mode Put the cream and milk into a saucepan, with sugar to sweeten, and the lemon-rind. Boil until the milk is well flavoured then strain it into a basin, and add the beaten yolks of eggs. Put this mixture into a jug; place the jug in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire, and stir the contents until they thicken, but do not allow them to boil. Take the cream off the fire, stir in the lemon-juice and isinglass, which should be melted, and whip well; fill a mould, place it in ice if at hand, and, when set, turn it out on a dish, and garnish as taste may dictate. The mixture may be whipped and drained, and then put into small glasses, when this mode of serving is preferred.
Time From 5 to 8 minutes to stir the mixture in the jug.
Average cost : with the best isinglass, 2s. 6d.
Sufficient to fill 1½ pint mould.
Seasonable at any time.
6 eggs,
a few slices of citron,
sugar to taste,
¼ pint *) ≈ 120 ml of cream,
a layer of any kind of jam.
Mode Beat the whites and yolks of the eggs separately; then mix them and beat well again, adding a few thin slices of citron, the cream, and sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten it nicely. When the mixture is well beaten, put it into a buttered pan, and fry the same as a pancake; but it should be three times the thickness of an ordinary pancake. Cover it with jam, and garnish with slices of citron and holly-leaves. This dish is served cold.
Time About 10 minutes to fry the mixture.
Average cost : with the jam, 1s. 4d.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
1 oz. *) ≈ 30 g. of isinglass,
1 pint *) ≈ 570 ml. of water,
½ pint *) ≈ 185 ml. of white wine,
the rind and juice of 1 large lemon,
sugar to taste,
the yolks of 6 eggs.
Mode Put the isinglass, water, and lemon-rind into a saucepan, and boil gently until the former is dissolved; then add the strained lemon-juice, the wine, and sufficient white sugar to sweeten the whole nicely. Boil for 2 or 3 minutes, strain the mixture into a jug, and add the yolks of the eggs, which should be well beaten; place the jug in a saucepan of boiling water; keep stirring the mixture one way until it thickens, but do not allow it to boil; then take it off the fire, and keep stirring until nearly cold. Pour it into a mould, omitting the sediment at the bottom of the jug, and let it remain until quite firm.
Time ¼ hour to boil the isinglass and water; about 10 minutes to
stir the mixture in the jug.
Average cost : with the best isinglass, 2s. 9d.
Sufficient to fill a quart mould.
Seasonable at any time.
Rather more than 1½ pint *) ≈ 855 ml. of jelly,
a few nice strawberries,
or red or white currants,
or raspberries,
or any fresh fruit that may be in season.
Mode Have ready the above proportion of jelly, which must be very
clear and rather sweet, the raw fruit requiring an additional quantity
of sugar. Select ripe, nice-looking fruit; pick off the stalks, unless
currants are used, when they are laid in the jelly as they come from the
tree. Begin by putting a little jelly at the bottom of the mould, which
must harden; then arrange the fruit round the sides of the mould,
recollecting; that it will be reversed when turned out; then pour in
some more jelly to make the fruit adhere, and, when that layer is set,
put another row of fruit and jelly until the mould is full. If
convenient, put it in ice until required for table, then wring a cloth
in boiling water, wrap it round the mould for a minute, and turn the
jelly carefully out. Peaches, apricots, plums, apples, &c., are better
for being boiled in a little clear syrup before they are laid in the
jelly; strawberries, raspberries, grapes, cherries, and currants are put
in raw. In winter, when fresh fruits are not obtainable, a very pretty
jelly may be made with preserved fruits or brandy cherries: these, in a
bright and clear jelly, have a very pretty effect; of course, unless the
jelly be very clear, the beauty of the dish will be spoiled. It may be
garnished with the same fruit as is laid in the jelly; for instance, an
open jelly with strawberries might have, piled in the centre, a few of
the same fruit prettily arranged, or a little whipped cream might be
substituted for the fruit.
Time One layer of jelly should remain 2 hours in a very cool place, before another layer is added.
Average cost : 2s. 6d.
Sufficient, with fruit, to fill a quart mould.
Seasonable, with fresh fruit, from June to October; with dried, at any
time.
1½ pint *) ≈ 855 ml. of calf's-feet jelly No. 1416,
a few drops of prepared cochineal.
Mode Make 1½ pint of jelly by recipe No. 1416, or, if wished more
economical, of clarified syrup and gelatine, flavouring it in any way
that may be preferred. Colour one-half of the jelly with a few drops of
prepared cochineal, and the other half leave as pale as possible. Have
ready a mould well wetted in every part; pour in a small quantity of the
red jelly, and let this set; when quite firm, pour on it the same
quantity of the pale jelly, and let this set; then proceed in this
manner until the mould is full, always taking care to let one jelly set
before the other is poured in, or the colours would run one into the
other. When turned out, the jelly should have a striped appearance. For
variety, half the mould may be filled at once with one of the jellies,
and, when firm, filled up with the other: this, also, has a very pretty
effect, and is more expeditiously prepared than when the jelly is poured
in small quantities into the mould. Blancmange and red jelly, or
blancmange and raspberry cream, moulded in the above manner, look very
well. The layers of blancmange and jelly should be about an inch in
depth, and each layer should be perfectly hardened before another is
added. Half a mould of blancmange and half a mould of jelly are
frequently served in the same manner. A few pretty dishes may be made,
in this way, of jellies or blancmanges left from the preceding day, by
melting them separately in a jug placed in a saucepan of boiling water,
and then moulding them by the foregoing directions. (See coloured plate S1.)
Time ¾ hour to make the jelly.
Average cost : with calf's-feet jelly, 2s.; with gelatine and syrup, more economical.
Sufficient to fill 1½ pint mould.
Seasonable at any time.
NoteIn making the jelly, use for flavouring a very pale sherry, or the colour will be too dark to contrast nicely with the red jelly.
1 quart *) ≈ 1 l. of milk,
the yolks of 4 eggs,
3 oz. *) ≈ 90 g. of ground rice,
6 oz. *) ≈ 180 g. of pounded sugar,
1½ oz. *) ≈ 45 g. of fresh butter,
the rind of 1 lemon,
the juice of 2,
½ oz. *) ≈ 15 g. of gelatine.
Mode Make a custard with the yolks of the eggs and ½ pint of the
milk, and, when done, put it into a basin: put half the remainder of the
milk into a saucepan with the ground rice, fresh butter, lemon-rind, and
3 oz. of the sugar, and let these ingredients boil until the mixture is
stiff, stirring them continually; when done, pour it into the bowl where
the custard is, mixing both well together. Put the gelatine with the
rest of the milk into a saucepan, and let it stand by the side of the
fire to dissolve; boil for a minute or two, stir carefully into the
basin, adding 3 oz. more of pounded sugar. When cold, stir in the
lemon-juice, which should be carefully strained, and pour the mixture
into a well-oiled mould, leaving out the lemon-peel, and set the mould
in a pan of cold water until wanted for table. Use eggs that have
rich-looking yolks; and, should the weather be very warm, rather a
larger proportion of gelatine must be allowed.
Time Altogether, 1 hour.
Average cost : 1s. 6d.
Sufficient to fill 2 small moulds.
Seasonable at any time.
1 pint *) ≈ 570 ml. of cream,
the yolks of 2 eggs,
¼ lb. *) ≈ 110 g. of white sugar,
1 large lemon,
1 oz. *) ≈ 30 g. of isinglass.
Mode Put the cream into a lined saucepan with the sugar,
lemon-peel, and isinglass, and simmer these over a gentle fire for about
10 minutes, stirring them all the time. Strain the cream into a jug, add
the yolks of eggs, which should be well beaten, and put the jug into a
saucepan of boiling water; stir the mixture one way until it thickens,
but do not allow it to boil; take it off the fire, and keep stirring
it until nearly cold. Strain the lemon-juice into a basin, gradually
pour on it the cream, and stir it well until the juice is well mixed
with it. Have ready a well-oiled mould, pour the cream into it, and let
it remain until perfectly set. When required for table, loosen the edges
with a small blunt knife, put a dish on the top of the mould, turn it
over quickly, and the cream should easily slip away.
Time 10 minutes to boil the cream; about 10 minutes to stir it over
the fire in the jug.
Average cost : with cream at 1s. per pint, and the best isinglass, 2s.
6d.
Sufficient to fill 1½-pint mould.
Seasonable at any time.
1 quart *) ≈ 1 l. of milk,
8 bitter almonds,
2 oz. *) ≈ 60 g. of gelatine,
2 large lemons,
¾ lb. *) ≈ 340 g. of lump sugar,
the yolks of 6 eggs.
Mode Put the milk into a lined saucepan with the almonds, which should be well pounded in a mortar, the gelatine, lemon-rind, and lump sugar, and boil these ingredients for about 5 minutes. Beat up the yolks of the eggs, strain the milk into a jug, add the eggs, and pour the mixture backwards and forwards a few times, until nearly cold; then stir briskly to it the lemon-juice, which should be strained, and keep stirring until the cream is almost cold: put it into an oiled mould, and let it remain until perfectly set. The lemon-juice must not be added to the cream when it is warm, and should be well stirred after it is put in.
Time 5 minutes to boil the milk.
Average cost : 2s. 5d.
Sufficient to fill two 1½-pint moulds.
Seasonable at any time.
1 pint *) ≈ 570 ml. of cream,
2 dozen sweet almonds,
3 glasses of sherry,
the rind and juice of 2 lemons,
sugar to taste.
Mode Blanch and chop the almonds, and put them into a jug with the cream; in another jug put the sherry, lemon-rind, strained juice, and sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten the whole nicely. Pour rapidly from one jug to the other till the mixture is well frothed; then, pour it into jelly-glasses, omitting the lemon-rind. This is a very cool and delicious sweet for summer, and may be made less rich by omitting the almonds and substituting orange or raisin wine for the sherry.
Time Altogether, ½ hour.
Average cost : with cream at 1s. per pint, 3s.
Sufficient to fill 12 glasses.
Seasonable at any time.
5 oz. *) ≈ 150 g. of loaf sugar,
2 pints *) ≈ 1140 ml. of boiling water,
the rind of 1 lemon and the juice of 3,
the yolks of 8 eggs.
Mode Make a quart of lemonade in the following manner:— Dissolve the sugar in the boiling water, having previously, with part of the sugar, rubbed off the lemon-rind, and add the strained juice. Strain the lemonade into a saucepan, and add the yolks of the eggs, which should be well beaten; stir this one way over the fire until the mixture thickens, but do not allow it to boil, and serve in custard-glasses, or on a glass dish. After the boiling water is poured on the sugar and lemon, it should stand covered for about ½ hour before the eggs are added to it, that the flavour of the rind may be extracted.
Time -½ hour to make the lemonade; about 10 minutes to stir the
custard over the fire.
Average cost : 1s.
Sufficient to fill 12 to 14 custard-glasses.
Seasonable at any time.
6 lemons,
¾ lb. *) ≈ 340 g. of lump sugar,
1 pint *) ≈ 570 ml. of water,
1½ oz. *) ≈ 45 g. of isinglass,
¼ pint *) ≈ 140 ml. of sherry.
Mode Peel 3 of the lemons, pour ½ pint of boiling water on the rind, and let it infuse for ½ hour; put the sugar, isinglass, and ½ pint of water into a lined saucepan, and boil these ingredients for 20 minutes; then put in the strained lemon-juice, the strained infusion of the rind, and bring the whole to the point of boiling; skim well, add the wine, and run the jelly through a bag; pour it into a mould that has been wetted or soaked in water; put it in ice, if convenient, where let it remain until required for table. Previously to adding the lemon-juice to the other ingredients, ascertain that it is very nicely strained, as, if this is not properly attended to, it is liable to make the jelly thick and muddy. As this jelly is very pale, and almost colourless, it answers very well for moulding with a jelly of any bright hue; for instance, half a jelly bright red, and the other half made of the above, would have a very good effect. Lemon jelly may also be made with calf's-feet stock, allowing the juice of 3 lemons to every pint of stock.
Time Altogether, 1 hour.
Average cost : with the best isinglass, 2s. 9d.
Sufficient to fill 1½-pint mould.
Seasonable at any time.
2 oz. *) ≈ 60 g. of isinglass,
1¾ pint *) ≈ 1 l. of water,
¾ lb. *) ≈ 340 g. of pounded sugar,
the juice of 5 lemons,
the rind of 1,
the whites of 3 eggs.
Mode Dissolve the isinglass in the water, strain it into a saucepan, and add the sugar, lemon-rind, and juice. Boil the whole from 10 to 15 minutes; strain it again, and let it stand till it is cold and begins to stiffen. Beat the whites of the eggs, put them to it, and whisk the mixture till it is quite white; put it into a mould which has been previously wetted, and let it remain until perfectly set; then turn it out, and garnish it according to taste.
Time 10 to 15 minutes.
Average cost : with the best isinglass, 3s.
6d.
Sufficient to fill a quart mould.
Seasonable at any time.
1 lb. *) ≈ 450 g. of lump sugar,
2 oz. *) ≈ 60 g. of isinglass,
1½ pint *) ≈ 860 ml. of water,
the juice of 2 lemons,
¼ pint *) ≈ 140 ml. of liqueur.
Mode Put the sugar, with 1 pint of the water, into a stewpan, and
boil them gently by the side of the fire until there is no scum
remaining, which must be carefully removed as fast as it rises. Boil the
isinglass with the other ½ pint of water, and skim it carefully in the
same manner. Strain the lemon-juice, and add it, with the clarified
isinglass, to the syrup; put in the liqueur, and bring the whole to the
boiling-point. Let the saucepan remain covered by the side of the fire
for a few minutes; then pour the jelly through a bag, put it into a
mould, and set the mould in ice until required for table. Dip the mould
in hot water, wipe the outside, loosen the jelly by passing a knife
round the edges, and turn it out carefully on a dish. Noyeau,
Maraschino, Curaçoa, brandy, or any kind of liqueur, answers for this
jelly; and, when made with isinglass, liqueur jellies are usually
prepared as directed above.
Time 10 minutes to boil the sugar and water.
Average cost : with the best isinglass, 3s. 6d.
Sufficient to fill a quart mould.
Seasonable at any time.
¼ lb. *) ≈ 110 g. of macaroni,
1½ pint *) ≈ 855 ml. of milk,
the rind of ½ lemon,
3 oz. *) ≈ 90 g. of lump sugar,
¾ pint *) ≈ 140 ml. of custard No. 1423
.
Mode Put the milk into a saucepan, with the lemon-peel and sugar; bring it to the boiling-point, drop in the macaroni, and let it gradually swell over a gentle fire, but do not allow the pipes to break. The form should be entirely preserved; and, though tender, should be firm, and not soft, with no part beginning to melt. Should the milk dry away before the macaroni is sufficiently swelled, add a little more. Make a custard by recipe No. 1423; place the macaroni on a dish, and pour the custard over the hot macaroni; grate over it a little nutmeg, and, when cold, garnish the dish with slices of candied citron.
Time From 40 to 50 minutes to swell the macaroni.
Average cost : with the custard, 1s.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
½ lb. *) ≈ 225 g. of pounded sugar,
the whites of 4 eggs.
Mode Whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and, with a
wooden spoon, stir in quickly the pounded sugar; and have some boards
thick enough to put in the oven to prevent the bottom of the meringues
from acquiring too much colour. Cut some strips of paper about 2 inches
wide; place this paper on the board, and drop a tablespoonful at a time
of the mixture on the paper, taking care to let all the meringues be the
same size. In dropping it from the spoon, give the mixture the form of
an egg, and keep the meringues about 2 inches apart from each other on
the paper. Strew over them some sifted sugar, and bake in a moderate
oven for ½ hour. As soon as they begin to colour, remove them from the
oven; take each slip of paper by the two ends, and turn it gently on the
table, and, with a small spoon, take out the soft part of each meringue.
Spread some clean paper on the board, turn the meringues upside down,
and put them into the oven to harden and brown on the other side. When
required for table, fill them with whipped cream, flavoured with liqueur
or vanilla, and sweetened with pounded sugar. Join two of the meringues
together, and pile them high in the dish, as shown in the annexed
drawing. To vary their appearance, finely-chopped almonds or currants
may be strewn over them before the sugar is sprinkled over; and they may
be garnished with any bright-coloured preserve. Great expedition is
necessary in making this sweet dish; as, if the meringues are not put
into the oven as soon as the sugar and eggs are mixed, the former melts,
and the mixture would run on the paper, instead of keeping its
egg-shape. The sweeter the meringues are made, the crisper will they be;
but, if there is not sufficient sugar mixed with them, they will most
likely be tough. They are sometimes coloured with cochineal; and, if
kept well covered in a dry place, will remain good for a month or six
weeks.
Time Altogether, about ½ hour.
Average cost : with the cream and flavouring, 1s.
Sufficient to make 2 dozen meringues.
Seasonable at any time.
1½ oz. *) ≈ 45 g. of isinglass,
the juice of 2 lemons,
noyeau and pounded sugar to taste,
1½ pint *) ≈ 855 ml. of cream.
Mode Dissolve the isinglass in a little boiling water, add the lemon-juice, and strain this to the cream, putting in sufficient noyeau and sugar to flavour and sweeten the mixture nicely; whisk the cream well, put it into an oiled mould, and set the mould in ice or in a cool place; turn it out, and garnish the dish to taste.
Time Altogether, ½ hour.
Average cost : with cream at 1s. per pint and the best isinglass, 4s.
Sufficient to fill a quart mould.
Seasonable at any time.
1½ pint *) ≈ 855 ml. of jelly,
½ pint *) ≈ 285 ml. of cream,
1 glass of sherry,
sugar to taste.
Mode Make the above proportion of calf's-feet or isinglass jelly,
colouring and flavouring it in any way that may be preferred; soak a
mould, open in the centre, for about ½ hour in cold water; fill it
with the jelly, and let it remain in a cool place until perfectly set;
then turn it out on a dish; fill the centre with whipped cream,
flavoured with sherry and sweetened with pounded sugar; pile this cream
high in the centre, and serve. The jelly should be made of rather a dark
colour, to contrast nicely with the cream.
Time ¾ hour.
Average cost : 3s. 6d.
Sufficient to fill 1½-pint mould.
Seasonable at any time.
1 pint *) ≈ 570 ml. of water,
1½ to 2 oz. *) ≈ 45 &,dash; 60 g. of isinglass,
½ lb. *) ≈ 225 g. of loaf sugar,
1 Seville orange,
1 lemon,
about 9 China oranges.
Mode Put the water into a saucepan, with the isinglass, sugar, and
the rind of 1 orange, and the same of ½ lemon, and stir these over the
fire until the isinglass is dissolved, and remove the scum; then add to
this the juice of the Seville orange, the juice of the lemon, and
sufficient juice of China oranges to make in all 1 pint; from 8 to 10
oranges will yield the desired quantity. Stir all together over the fire
until it is just on the point of boiling; skim well; then strain the
jelly through a very fine sieve or jelly-bag, and when nearly cold, put
it into a mould previously wetted, and, when quite set, turn it out on a
dish, and garnish it to taste. To insure this jelly being clear, the
orange-and lemon-juice should be well strained, and the isinglass
clarified, before they are added to the other ingredients, and, to
heighten the colour, a few drops of prepared cochineal may be added.
Time 5 minutes to boil without the juice; 1 minute after it is
added.
Average cost : with the best isinglass, 3s. 6d.
Sufficient to fill a quart mould.
Seasonable from November to May.
1½ pint *) ≈ 855 ml. of orange jelly No. 1454,
4 oranges,
1 pint *) ≈ 570 ml. of clarified syrup.
Mode Boil ½ lb. of loaf sugar with ½ pint of water until there is no scum left (which must be carefully removed as fast as it rises), and carefully peel the oranges; divide them into thin slices, without breaking the thin skin, and put these pieces of orange into the syrup, where let them remain for about 5 minutes; then take them out, and use the syrup for the jelly, which should be made by recipe No. 1454. When the oranges are well drained, and the jelly is nearly cold, pour a little of the latter into the bottom of the mould; then lay in a few pieces of orange; over these pour a little jelly, and when this is set, place another layer of oranges, proceeding in this manner until the mould is full. Put it in ice, or in a cool place, and, before turning it out, wrap a cloth round the mould for a minute or two, which has been wrung out in boiling water.
Time 5 minutes to simmer the oranges.
Average cost : 3s. 6d.
Sufficient, with the slices of orange, to fill a quart mould.
Seasonable from November to May.
6 eggs,
1 saltspoonful of salt,
⅓ saltspoonful of pepper,
¼ lb. *) ≈ 110 g. of butter.
Mode Break the eggs into a basin, omitting the whites of 3, and beat
them up with the salt and pepper until extremely light; then add 2 oz.
of the butter broken into small pieces, and stir this into the mixture.
Put the other 2 oz. of butter into a frying-pan, make it quite hot, and,
as soon as it begins to bubble, whisk the eggs, &c. very briskly for a
minute or two, and pour them into the pan; stir the omelet with a spoon
one way until the mixture thickens and becomes firm, and when the whole
is set, fold the edges over, so that the omelet assumes an oval form;
and when it is nicely brown on one side, and quite firm, it is done. To
take off the rawness on the upper side, hold the pan before the fire for
a minute or two, and brown it with a salamander or hot shovel. Serve
very expeditiously on a very hot dish, and never cook it until it is
just wanted. The flavour of this omelet may be very much enhanced by
adding minced parsley, minced onion or eschalot, or grated cheese,
allowing 1 tablespoonful of the former, and half the quantity of the
latter, to the above proportion of eggs. Shrimps or oysters may also be
added: the latter should be scalded in their liquor, and then bearded
and cut into small pieces. In making an omelet, be particularly careful
that it is not too thin, and, to avoid this, do not make it in too large
a frying-pan, as the mixture would then spread too much, and taste of
the outside. It should also not be greasy, burnt, or too much done, and
should be cooked over a gentle fire, that the whole of the substance may
be heated without drying up the outside. Omelets are sometimes served
with gravy; but this should never be poured over them, but served in a
tureen, as the liquid causes the omelet to become heavy and flat,
instead of eating light and soft. In making the gravy, the flavour
should not overpower that of the omelet, and should be thickened with
arrowroot or rice flour.
Time With 6 eggs, in a frying-pan 18 or 20 inches round, 4 to 6 minutes.
Average cost : 9d.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
6 eggs,
4 oz. *) ≈ 120 g. of butter,
½ saltspoonful of pepper,
2 tablespoonfuls of minced ham.
Mode Mince the ham very finely, without any fat, and fry it for 2 minutes in a little butter; then make the batter for the omelet, stir in the ham, and proceed as directed in recipe No. 1456. Do not add any salt to the batter, as the ham is usually sufficiently salt to impart a flavour to the omelet. Good lean bacon, or tongue, answers equally well for this dish; but they must also be slightly cooked previously to mixing them with the batter. Serve very hot and quickly, without gravy.
Time From 4 to 6 minutes.
Average cost : 1s.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
6 eggs,
1 saltspoonful of salt,
½ saltspoonful of pepper,
2 sheep's kidneys, or
2 tablespoonfuls of minced veal kidney,
Mode Skin the kidneys, cut them into small dice, and toss them in a
frying-pan, in 1 oz. of butter, over the fire for 2 or 3 minutes. Mix
the ingredients for the omelet the same as in recipe No. 1456
, and when
the eggs are well whisked, stir in the pieces of kidney. Make the butter
hot in the frying-pan, and when it bubbles, pour in the omelet, and fry
it over a gentle fire from 4 to 6 minutes. When the eggs are set, fold
the edges over, so that the omelet assumes an oval form, and be careful
that it is not too much done: to brown the top, hold the pan before the
fire for a minute or two, or use a salamander until the desired colour
is obtained, but never turn an omelet in the pan. Slip it carefully on
to a very hot dish, or, what is a much safer method, put a dish on the
omelet, and turn the pan quickly over. It should be served the instant
it comes from the fire.
Time 4 to 6 minutes.
Average cost : 1s.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
6 eggs,
4 oz. *) ≈ 120 g. of butter,
2 oz. *) ≈ 60 g. of sifted sugar.
Mode Break the eggs into a basin, omitting the whites of 3; whisk them well, adding the sugar and 2 oz. of the butter, which should be broken into small pieces, and stir all these ingredients well together. Make the remainder of the butter quite hot in a small frying-pan, and when it commences to bubble, pour in the eggs, &c. Keep stirring them until they begin to set; then turn the edges of the omelet over, to make it an oval shape, and finish cooking it. To brown the top, hold the pan before the fire, or use a salamander, and turn it carefully on to a very hot dish: sprinkle sifted sugar over, and serve.
Time From 4 to 6 minutes.
Average cost : 10d.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
6 eggs,
4 oz. *) ≈ 120 g. of butter,
3 tablespoonfuls of apricot, strawberry,or any jam that may be preferred.
Mode Make the omelet by recipe No. 1459, only instead of doubling it over, leave it flat in the pan. When quite firm, and nicely brown on one side, turn it carefully on to a hot dish, spread over the middle of it the jam, and fold the omelet over on each side; sprinkle sifted sugar over, and serve very quickly. A pretty dish of small omelets may be made by dividing the batter into 3 or 4 portions, and frying them separately; they should then be spread each one with a different kind of preserve, and the omelets rolled over. Always sprinkle sweet omelets with sifted sugar before being sent to table.
Time 4 to 6 minutes.
Average cost : 1s. 2d.
Sufficient for 4 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
6 eggs,
5 oz. *) ≈ 150 g. of pounded sugar,
flavouring of vanilla, orange-flower water, or lemon-rind,
3 oz. *) ≈ 90 g. of butter,
1 dessert-spoonful of rice-flour.
Mode Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs, add to the former the sugar, the rice-flour, and either of the above flavourings that may be preferred, and stir these ingredients well together. Whip the whites of the eggs, mix them lightly with the batter, and put the butter into a small frying-pan. As soon as it begins to bubble, pour the batter into it, and set the pan over a bright but gentle fire; and when the omelet is set, turn the edges over to make it an oval shape, and slip it on to a silver dish, which has been previously well buttered. Put it in the oven, and bake from 12 to 15 minutes; sprinkle finely-powdered sugar over the soufflé, and serve it immediately
Time About 4 minutes in the pan; to bake, from 12 to 15 minutes.
Average cost 1s.
2 or 3 eggs,
2 oz. *) ≈ 60 g of butter,
1 teaspoonful of flour,
½ teacupful of milk.
Mode Make a thin cream of the flour and milk; then beat up the eggs, mix all together, and add a pinch of salt and a few grains of cayenne. Melt the butter in a small frying-pan, and, when very hot, pour in the batter. Let the pan remain for a few minutes over a clear fire; then sprinkle upon the omelet some chopped herbs and a few shreds of onion; double the omelet dexterously, and shake it out of the pan on to a hot dish. A simple sweet omelet can be made by the same process, substituting sugar or preserve for the chopped herbs.
Time 2 minutes.
Average cost : 6d.
Sufficient for 2 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
1 oz. *) ≈ 30 g. of isinglass,
6 large oranges,
1 lemon,
sugar to taste,
water,
½ pint *) ≈ 285 ml. of good cream.
Mode Squeeze the juice from the oranges and lemon; strain it, and put it into a saucepan with the isinglass, and sufficient water to make in all 1½ pint. Rub the sugar on the orange and lemon-rind, add it to the other ingredients, and boil all together for about 10 minutes. Strain through a muslin bag, and, when cold, beat up with it ½ pint of thick cream. Wet a mould, or soak it in cold water; pour in the cream, and put it in a cool place to set. If the weather is very cold, 1 oz. of isinglass will be found sufficient for the above proportion of ingredients.
Time 10 minutes to boil the juice and water.
Average cost : with the best isinglass, 3s.
Sufficient to fill a quart mould.
Seasonable from November to May.
1 Seville orange,
1 tablespoonful of brandy,
¼ lb. *) ≈ 110 g. of loaf sugar,
the yolks of 4 eggs,
1 pint *) ≈ 570 ml. of cream.
Mode Boil the rind of the Seville orange until tender, and beat it in a mortar to a pulp; add to it the brandy, the strained juice of the orange, and the sugar, and beat all together for about 10 minutes, adding the well-beaten yolks of eggs. Bring the cream to the boiling-point, and pour it very gradually to the other ingredients, and beat the mixture till nearly cold; put it into custard-cups, place the cups in a deep dish of boiling water, where let them remain till quite cold. Take the cups out of the water, wipe them, and garnish the tops of the creams with candied orange-peel or preserved chips.
Time Altogether, ¾ hour.
Average cost : with cream at 1s. per pint, 1s. 7d.
Sufficient to make 7 or 8 creams.
Seasonable from November to May.
NoteTo render this dish more economical, substitute milk for the cream, but add a small pinch of isinglass to make the creams firm.
SEVILLE ORANGE (Citrus vulgaris).— This variety, called also bitter orange, is of the same species as the sweet orange, and grows in great abundance on the banks of the Guadalquiver, in Andalusia, whence this fruit is chiefly obtained. In that part of Spain there are very extensive orchards of these oranges, which form the chief wealth of the monasteries. The pulp of the bitter orange is not eaten raw. In the yellow rind, separated from the white spongy substance immediately below it, is contained an essential oil, which is an agreeable warm aromatic, much superior for many purposes to that of the common orange. The best marmalade and the richest wine are made from this orange; and from its flowers the best orange-flower water is distilled. Seville oranges are also preserved whole as a sweetmeat.
For the batter,
½ lb. *) ≈ 225 g. of flour,
½ oz. *) ≈ 15 g. of butter,
½ saltspoonful of salt,
2 eggs,
milk,
oranges,
hot lard or clarified dripping.
Mode Make a nice light batter with the above proportion of flour, butter, salt, eggs, and sufficient milk to make it the proper consistency; peel the oranges, remove as much of the white skin as possible, and divide each orange into eight pieces, without breaking the thin skin, unless it be to remove the pips; dip each piece of orange in the batter. Have ready a pan of boiling lard or clarified dripping; drop in the oranges, and fry them a delicate brown from 8 to 10 minutes. When done, lay them on a piece of blotting-paper before the fire, to drain away the greasy moisture, and dish them on a white d'oyley; sprinkle over them plenty of pounded sugar, and serve quickly.
Time 8 to 10 minutes to fry the fritters; 5 minutes to drain them.
Average cost : 9d.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Seasonable from November to May.
6 large oranges,
½ lb. *) ≈ 225 g. of loaf sugar,
¼ pint *) ≈ 140 ml. of water,
½ pint *) ≈ 285 ml. of cream,
2 tablespoonfuls of any kind of liqueur,
sugar to taste.
Mode Put the sugar and water into a saucepan, and boil them until the sugar becomes brittle, which may be ascertained by taking up a small quantity in a spoon, and dipping it in cold water; if the sugar is sufficiently boiled, it will easily snap. Peel the oranges, remove as much of the white pith as possible, and divide them into nice-sized slices, without breaking the thin white skin which surrounds the juicy pulp. Place the pieces of orange on small skewers, dip them into the hot sugar, and arrange them in layers round a plain mould, which should be well oiled with the purest salad-oil. The sides of the mould only should be lined with the oranges, and the centre left open for the cream. Let the sugar become firm by cooling; turn the oranges carefully out on a dish, and fill the centre with whipped cream, flavoured with any kind of liqueur, and sweetened with pounded sugar. This is an exceedingly ornamental and nice dish for the supper-table.
Time 10 minutes to boil the sugar.
Average cost : 1s. 8d.
Sufficient for 1 mould.
Seasonable from November to May.
Eggs,
flour,
milk;
to every egg allow
1 oz. *) ≈ 30 g. of flour,
about 1 gill *) ≈ 140 ml. of milk,
⅛ saltspoonful of salt.
Mode Ascertain that the eggs are fresh; break each one separately in
a cup; whisk them well, put them into a basin, with the flour, salt, and
a few drops of milk, and beat the whole to a perfectly smooth batter;
then add by degrees the remainder of the milk. The proportion of this
latter ingredient must be regulated by the size of the eggs, &c. &c.;
but the batter, when ready for frying, should be of the consistency of
thick cream. Place a small frying-pan on the fire to get hot; let it be
delicately clean, or the pancakes will stick, and, when quite hot, put
into it a small piece of butter, allowing about ½ oz. to each pancake.
When it is melted, pour in the batter, about ½ teacupful to a pan 5
inches in diameter, and fry it for about 4 minutes, or until it is
nicely brown on one side. By only pouring in a small quantity of batter,
and so making the pancakes thin, the necessity of turning them (an
operation rather difficult to unskilful cooks) is obviated. When the
pancake is done, sprinkle over it some pounded sugar, roll it up in the
pan, and take it out with a large slice, and place it on a dish before
the fire. Proceed in this manner until sufficient are cooked for a dish;
then send them quickly to table, and continue to send in a further
quantity, as pancakes are never good unless eaten almost immediately
they come from the frying-pan. The batter may be flavoured with a little
grated lemon-rind, or the pancakes may have preserve rolled in them
instead of sugar. Send sifted sugar and a cut lemon to table with them.
To render the pancakes very light, the yolks and whites of the eggs
should be beaten separately, and the whites added the last thing to the
batter before frying.
Time from 4 to 6 minutes for a pancake that does not require
turning; from 6 to 8 minutes for a thicker one.
Average cost : for 3 persons, 6d.
6 eggs,
1 pint *) ≈ 570 ml. of cream,
¼ lb. *) ≈ 110 g. of loaf sugar,
1 glass of sherry,
½ teaspoonful of grated nutmeg,
flour.
Mode Ascertain that the eggs are extremely fresh, beat them well, strain and mix with them the cream, pounded sugar, wine, nutmeg, and as much flour as will make the batter nearly as thick as that for ordinary pancakes. Make the frying-pan hot, wipe it with a clean cloth, pour in sufficient batter to make a thin pancake, and fry it for about 5 minutes. Dish the pancakes piled one above the other, strew sifted sugar between each, and serve.
Time About 5 minutes.
Average cost : with cream at 1s. per pint, 2s. 3d.
Sufficient to make 8 pancakes.
Seasonable at any time, but specially served on Shrove Tuesday.
For the batter:
½ lb. *) ≈ 225 g. of flour,
½ oz. *) ≈ 15 g. of butter,
½ saltspoonful of salt,
2 eggs,
milk;
peaches,
hot lard or clarified dripping.
Mode Make a nice smooth, batter in the same manner as directed in recipe No. 1393, and skin, halve, and stone the peaches, which should be quite ripe; dip them in the batter, and fry the pieces in hot lard or clarified dripping, which should be brought to the boiling-point before the peaches are put in. From 8 to 10 minutes will be required to fry them, and, when done, drain them before the fire, and dish them on a white d'oyley. Strew over plenty of pounded sugar, and serve.
Time From 8 to 10 minutes to fry the fritters, 6 minutes to drain
them.
Average cost : 1s.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Seasonable in July, August, and September.
PEACH.— The peach and nectarine are amongst the most delicious
of our fruits, and are considered as varieties of the same
species produced by cultivation. The former is characterized by
a very delicate down, while the latter is smooth; but, as a
proof of their identity as to species, trees have borne peaches
in one part and nectarines in another; and even a single fruit
has had down on one side and the other smooth. The trees are
almost exactly alike, as well as the blossoms. Pliny states that
the peach was originally brought from Persia, where it grows
naturally, from which the name of Persica was bestowed upon it
by the Romans; and some modern botanists apply this as the
generic name, separating them from Amygdalus, or Almond, to
which Linnaeus had united them. Although they are not tropical,
they require a great deal of warmth to bring them to perfection:
hence they seldom ripen in this country, in ordinary seasons,
without the use of walls or glass; consequently, they bear a
high price. In a good peach, the flesh is firm, the skin thin,
of a deep bright colour next the sun and of a yellowish green
next to the wall; the pulp is yellowish, full of
highly-flavoured juice, the fleshy part thick, and the stone
small. Too much down is a sign of inferior quality. This fruit
is much used at the dessert, and makes a delicious preserve.
6 to 8 pears,
water,
sugar,
2 oz. *) ≈ 60 g. of butter,
the yolk of an egg,
½ oz. *) ≈ 15 g. of gelatine.
Mode Peel and cut the pears into any form that may be preferred, and steep them in cold water to prevent them turning black; put them into a saucepan with sufficient cold water to cover them, and boil them with the butter and enough sugar to sweeten them nicely, until tender; then brush the pears over with the yolk of an egg, sprinkle them with sifted sugar, and arrange them on a dish. Add the gelatine to the syrup, boil it up quickly for about 5 minutes, strain it over the pears, and let it remain until set. The syrup may be coloured with a little prepared cochineal, which would very much improve the appearance of the dish.
Time From 20 minutes to ½ hour to stew the pears; 5 minutes to
boil the syrup.
Average cost : 1s. 3d.
Sufficient for a large dish.
Seasonable from August to February.
4 large pears or 6 small ones,
8 cloves,
sugar to taste,
water,
a small piece of cinnamon,
¼ pint *) ≈ 140 ml. of raisin wine,
a
strip of lemon-peel,
the juice of ½ lemon,
½ oz. *) ≈ 15 g. of gelatine.
Mode Peel and cut the pears into quarters; put them into a jar with ¾ pint of water, cloves, cinnamon, and sufficient sugar to sweeten the whole nicely; cover down the top of the jar, and bake the pears in a gentle oven until perfectly tender, but do not allow them to break. When done, lay the pears in a plain mould, which should be well wetted, and boil ½ pint of the liquor the pears were baked in with the wine, lemon-peel, strained juice, and gelatine. Let these ingredients boil quickly for 5 minutes, then strain the liquid warm over the pears; put the mould in a cool place, and when the jelly is firm, turn it out on a glass dish.
Time 2 hours to bake the pears in a cool oven.
Average cost : 1s. 3d.
Sufficient for a quart mould.
Seasonable from August to February
A small pineapple,
a small wineglassful of brandy or liqueur,
2 oz. *) ≈ 60 g. of sifted sugar;
batter as for apple fritters No. 1393.
Mode This elegant dish, although it may appear extravagant, is really not so if made when pineapples are plentiful. We receive them now in such large quantities from the West Indies, that at times they may be purchased at an exceedingly low rate: it would not, of course, be economical to use the pines which are grown in our English pineries for the purposes of fritters. Pare the pine with as little waste as possible, cut it into rather thin slices, and soak these slices in the above proportion of brandy or liqueur and pounded sugar for 4 hours; then make a batter the same as for apple fritters, substituting cream for the milk, and using a smaller quantity of flour; and, when this is ready, dip in the pieces of pine, and fry them in boiling lard from 5 to 8 minutes; turn them when sufficiently brown on one side, and, when done, drain them from the lard before the fire, dish them on a white d'oyley, strew over them sifted sugar, and serve quickly.
Time 5 to 8 minutes.
Average cost : when cheap and plentiful, 1s. 6d. for the pine.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Seasonable in July and August.
PINEAPPLE.— The pineapple has not been known in Europe above two hundred years, and has not been cultivated in England much above a century. It is stated that the first pineapples raised in Europe were by M. La Cour, of Leyden, about the middle of the 17th century; and it is said to have been first cultivated in England by Sir Matthew Decker, of Richmond. In Kensington Palace, there is a picture in which Charles II. is represented as receiving a pineapple from his gardener Rose, who is presenting it on his knees.
3 oz. *) ≈ 90 g. of flour,
3 eggs,
⅓ pint *) ≈ 190 ml. of milk.
Mode Mix the flour to a smooth batter with a small quantity of the
milk; stir in the eggs, which should be well whisked, and then the
remainder of the milk; boat the whole to a perfectly smooth batter, and
should it be found not quite thin enough, add two or three
tablespoonfuls more milk. Have ready a frying-pan, with plenty of
boiling lard in it; drop in rather more than a tablespoonful at a time
of the batter, and fry the fritters a nice brown, turning them when
sufficiently cooked on one side. Drain them well from the greasy
moisture by placing them upon a piece of blotting-paper before the
fire; dish them on a white d'oyley, sprinkle over them sifted sugar, and
send to table with them a cut lemon and plenty of pounded sugar.
Time From 6 to 8 minutes.
Average cost : 4d.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
2 large potatoes,
4 eggs,
2 tablespoonfuls of cream,
2 ditto of raisin or sweet wine,
1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice,
4 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg,
hot lard.
Mode Boil the potatoes, and beat them up lightly with a fork, but do not use a spoon, as that would make them heavy. Beat the eggs well, leaving out one of the whites; add the other ingredients, and beat all together for at least 20 minutes, or until the batter is extremely light. Put plenty of good lard into a frying-pan, and drop a tablespoonful of the batter at a time into it, and fry the fritters a nice brown. Serve them with the following sauce:— A glass of sherry mixed with the strained juice of a lemon, and sufficient white sugar to sweeten the whole nicely. Warm these ingredients, and serve the sauce separately in a tureen. The fritters should be neatly dished on a white d'oyley, and pounded sugar sprinkled over them; and they should be well drained on a piece of blotting-paper before the fire previously to being dished.
Time From 6 to 8 minutes.
Average cost : 9d.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
¾ pint *) ≈ 430 ml. of milk,
¾ pint *) ≈ 430 ml. of cream,
1½ oz. *) ≈ 45 g. of isinglass,
raspberry jelly,
sugar to taste,
2 tablespoonfuls of brandy.
Mode Boil the milk, cream, and isinglass together for ¼ hour, or
until the latter is melted, and strain it through a hair sieve into a
basin. Let it cool a little; then add to it sufficient raspberry jelly,
which, when melted, would make ⅓ pint, and stir well till the
ingredients are thoroughly mixed. If not sufficiently sweet, add a
little pounded sugar with the brandy; whisk the mixture well until
nearly cold, put it into a well-oiled mould, and set it in a cool place
till perfectly set. Raspberry jam may be substituted for the jelly, but
must be melted, and rubbed through a sieve, to free it from seeds: in
summer, the juice of the fresh fruit may be used, by slightly mashing it
with a wooden spoon, and sprinkling sugar over it; the juice that flows
from the fruit should then be used for mixing with the cream. If the
colour should not be very good, a few drops of prepared cochineal may be
added to improve its appearance. (See coloured plate T1.)
Time ¼ hour to boil the cream and isinglass.
Average cost : with cream at 1s. per pint, and the best isinglass, 3s.
Sufficient to fill a quart mould.
Seasonable, with jelly, at any time.
NoteStrawberry cream may be made in precisely the same manner, substituting strawberry jam or jelly for the raspberry.
¼ lb. *) ≈ 110 g. of ground rice,
3 oz. *) ≈ 90 g. of loaf sugar,
1 oz. *) ≈ 30 g. of fresh butter,
1 quart *) ≈ 1 l. of milk,
flavouring of lemon-peel,
essence of almonds or vanilla, or laurel-leaves.
Mode Mix the rice to a smooth batter with about ½ pint of the milk, and the remainder put into a saucepan, with the sugar, butter, and whichever of the above flavourings may be preferred; bring the milk to the boiling-point, quickly stir in the rice, and let it boil for about 10 minutes, or until it comes easily away from the saucepan, keeping it well stirred the whole time. Grease a mould with pure salad-oil; pour in the rice, and let it get perfectly set, when it should turn out quite easily; garnish it with jam, or pour round a compôte of any kind of fruit, just before it is sent to table. This blancmange is better for being made the day before it is wanted, as it then has time to become firm. If laurel-leaves are used for flavouring, steep 3 of them in the milk, and take them out before the rice is added: about 8 drops of essence of almonds, or from 12 to 16 drops of essence of vanilla, would be required to flavour the above proportion of milk.
Time From 10 to 15 minutes to boil the rice.
Average cost : 9d.
Sufficient to fill a quart mould.
Seasonable at any time.
½ lb. *) ≈ 225 g of rice,
1 quart *) ≈ 1 l. of milk,
6 oz. *) ≈ 180 g. of pounded sugar,
flavouring of vanilla, lemon-peel, or bitter almonds,
egg and bread crumbs,
hot lard.
Mode Put the rice, milk, and sugar into a saucepan, and let the former gradually swell over a gentle fire until all the milk is dried up; and just before the rice is done, stir in a few drops of essence of any of the above flavourings. Let the rice get cold; then form it into small round balls, dip them into yolk of egg, sprinkle them with bread crumbs, and fry them in boiling lard for about 10 minutes, turning them about, that they may get equally browned. Drain the greasy moisture from them, by placing them on a cloth in front of the fire for a minute or two; pile them on a white d'oyley, and send them quickly to table. A small piece of jam is sometimes introduced into the middle of each croquette, which adds very much to the flavour of this favourite dish.
Time From ¾ to 1 hour to swell the rice; about 10 minutes to fry
the croquettes.
Average cost : 10d.
Sufficient to make 7 or 8 croquettes.
Seasonable at any time.
6 oz. *) ≈ 180 g. of rice,
1 quart *) ≈ 1 l. of milk,
3 oz. *) ≈ 90 g. of sugar,
1 oz. *) ≈ 30 g. of fresh butter
6 oz. *) ≈ 180 g. of orange marmalade,
4 eggs.
Mode Swell the rice in the milk, with the sugar and butter, over a slow fire until it is perfectly tender, which will be in about ¾ hour. When the rice is done, strain away the milk, should there be any left, and mix with it the marmalade and well-beaten eggs; stir the whole over the fire until the eggs are set; then spread the mixture on a dish to the thickness of about ½ inch, or rather thicker. When it is perfectly cold, cut it into long strips, dip them in a batter the same as for apple fritters, and fry them a nice brown. Dish them on a white d'oyley, strew sifted sugar over, and serve quickly.
Time About ¾ hour to swell the rice; from 7 to 10 minutes to fry
the fritters.
Average cost : 1s. 6d.
Sufficient to make 7 or 8 fritters.
Seasonable at any time.
6 oz. *) ≈ 180 g. of rice,
1 quart *) ≈ 1 l. of milk,
flavouring of essence of almonds,
sugar to taste,
1 pint *) ≈ 570 ml. of custard made by recipe No. 1423.
Mode Boil the rice in the milk, with sugar and a flavouring of essence of almonds, until the former is tender, adding, if necessary, a little more milk, should it dry away too much. When the rice is quite soft, put it into teacups, or small round jars, and let it remain until cold; then turn the rice out on a deep glass dish, pour over a custard made by recipe No. 1423, and, on the top of each ball place a small piece of bright-coloured preserve or jelly. Lemon-peel or vanilla may be boiled with the rice instead of the essence of almonds, when either of these is preferred; but the flavouring of the custard must correspond with that of the rice.
Time About ¾ hour to swell the rice in the milk.
Average cost : with the custard, 1s. 6d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 children.
Seasonable at any time.
3 tablespoonfuls of ground rice,
1 pint *) ≈ 570 ml. of milk,
5 eggs,
pounded sugar to taste,
flavouring of lemon-rind, vanilla, coffee, chocolate, or anything that may be preferred,
a piece of butter the size of a walnut.
Mode Mix the ground rice with 6 tablespoonfuls of the milk quite smoothly, and put it into a saucepan with the remainder of the milk and butter, and keep stirring it over the fire for about ¼ hour, or until the mixture thickens. Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs, beat the former in a basin, and stir to them the rice and sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten the soufflé; but add this latter ingredient as sparingly as possible, as, the less sugar there is used, the lighter will be the soufflé. Now whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth or snow; mix them with the other preparation, and pour the whole into a soufflé-dish, and put it instantly into the oven; bake it about ½ hour in a moderate oven; take it out, hold a salamander or hot shovel over the top, sprinkle sifted sugar over it, and send the soufflé to table in the dish it was baked in, either with a napkin pinned round, or inclosed in a more ornamental dish. The excellence of this fashionable dish entirely depends on the proper whisking of the whites of the eggs, the manner of baking, and the expedition with which it is sent to table. Soufflés should be served instantly from the oven, or they will sink, and be nothing more than an ordinary pudding.
Time About ½ hour.
Average cost : 1s.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
3 heaped tablespoonfuls of potato-flour, rice-flour, arrowroot, or tapioca,
1 pint *) ≈ 570 ml. of milk,
5 eggs,
a piece of butter the size of a walnut,
sifted sugar to taste,
¼ saltspoonful of salt flavouring.
Mode Mix the potato-flour, or whichever one of the above ingredients
is used, with a little of the milk; put it into a saucepan, with the
remainder of the milk, the butter, salt, and sufficient pounded sugar to
sweeten the whole nicely. Stir these ingredients over the fire until the
mixture thickens; then take it off the fire, and let it cool a little.
Separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs, beat the latter, and
stir them into the soufflé batter. Now whisk the whites of the eggs to
the firmest possible froth, for on this depends the excellence of the
dish; stir them to the other ingredients, and add a few drops of essence
of any flavouring that may be preferred; such as vanilla, lemon, orange,
ginger, &c. &c. Pour the batter into a soufflé-dish, put it immediately
into the oven, and bake for about ½ hour; then take it out, put the
dish into another more ornamental one, such as is made for the purpose;
hold a salamander or hot shovel over the soufflé, strew it with sifted
sugar, and send it instantly to table. The secret of making a soufflé
well, is to have the eggs well whisked, but particularly the whites, the
oven not too hot, and to send it to table the moment it comes from the
oven. If the soufflé be ever so well made, and it is allowed to stand
before being sent to table, its appearance and goodness will be entirely
spoiled. Soufflés may be flavoured in various ways, but must be named
accordingly. Vanilla is one of the most delicate and recherché
flavourings that can be used for this very fashionable dish.
Time About ½ hour in the oven; 2 or 3 minutes to hold the
salamander over.
Average cost : 1s.
Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
4 eggs,
¾ pint *) ≈ 430 g. of milk,
pounded sugar to taste,
flavouring of vanilla,
lemon-rind, or orange-flower water.
Mode Put the milk into a saucepan with sufficient sugar to sweeten it nicely, and the rind of ½ lemon. Let this steep by the side of the fire for ½ hour, when take out the peel; separate the whites from the yolks of the eggs, and whisk the former to a perfectly stiff froth, or until there is no liquid remaining; bring the milk to the boiling-point, and drop in the snow a tablespoonful at a time, and keep turning the eggs until sufficiently cooked. Then place them on a glass dish, beat up the yolks of the eggs, stir to them the milk, add a little more sugar, and strain this mixture into a jug; place the jug in a saucepan of boiling water, and stir it one way until the mixture thickens, but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle. Pour this custard over the eggs, when they should rise to the surface. They make an exceedingly pretty addition to a supper, and should be put in a cold place after being made. When they are flavoured with vanilla or orange-flower water, it is not necessary to steep the milk. A few drops of the essence of either may be poured in the milk just before the whites are poached. In making the custard, a little more flavouring and sugar should always be added.
Time About 2 minutes to poach the whites; 8 minutes to stir the custard.
Average cost : 8d.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
½ lb. *) ≈ 225 g. of preserve,
1 pint *) ≈ 570 ml. of milk,
2 oz. *) ≈ 60 g. of lump sugar,
1 heaped tablespoonful of tous les mois,
3 drops of essence of cloves,
3 drops of almond-flavouring.
Mode Place the preserve at the bottom of a glass dish; put the milk into a lined saucepan, with the sugar, and make it boil. Mix to a smooth batter the tous les mois, with a very little cold milk; stir it briskly into the boiling milk, add the flavouring, and simmer for 2 minutes. When rather cool, but before turning solid, pour the cream over the jam, and ornament it with strips of red-currant jelly or preserved fruit.
Time 2 minutes.
Average cost : 10d.
Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
Strawberries,
pounded sugar;
to every pint *) ≈ 570 ml. of juice allow
1¼ oz. *) ≈ 45 g. of isinglass.
Mode Pick the strawberries, put them into a pan, squeeze them well with a wooden spoon, add sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten them nicely, and let them remain for 1 hour, that the juice may be extracted; then add ½ pint of water to every pint of juice. Strain the strawberry-juice and water through a bag; measure it, and to every pint allow 1-¼ oz. of isinglass, melted and clarified in ¼ pint of water. Mix this with the juice; put the jelly into a mould, and set the mould in ice. A little lemon-juice added to the strawberry-juice improves the flavour of the jelly, if the fruit is very ripe; but it must be well strained before it is put to the other ingredients, or it will make the jelly muddy.
Time 1 hour to draw the juice.
Average cost : with the best isinglass, 3s.
SufficientAllow 1½ pint of jelly for 5 or 6 persons.
Seasonable in June, July, and August.
¼ lb. *) ≈ 675 g. of macaroons or 6 small sponge-cakes,
sherry,
1 pint *) ≈ 570 ml. of cream,
5 oz. *) ≈ 150 g. of lump sugar,
2 large tablespoonfuls of arrowroot,
the rind of 1 lemon,
the juice of ½ lemon,
3 tablespoonfuls of milk.
Mode Lay the macaroons or sponge-cakes in a glass dish, and pour over them as much sherry as will cover them, or sufficient to soak them well. Put the cream into a lined saucepan, with the sugar and lemon-rind, and let it remain by the side of the fire until the cream is well flavoured, when take out the lemon-rind. Mix the arrowroot smoothly with the cold milk; add this to the cream, and let it boil gently for about 3 minutes, keeping it well stirred. Take it off the fire, stir till nearly cold, when add the lemon-juice, and pour the whole over the cakes. Garnish the cream with strips of angelica, or candied citron cut thin, or bright-coloured jelly or preserve. This cream is exceedingly delicious, flavoured with vanilla instead of lemon: when this flavouring is used, the sherry may be omitted, and the mixture poured over the dry cakes.
Time About ½ hour to infuse the lemon-rind; 5 minutes to boil the
cream.
Average cost : with cream at 1s. per pint, 3s.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
1 pint *) ≈ 570 ml. of sherry or white wine,
½ grated nutmeg,
sugar to taste,
1½ pint *) ≈ 855 ml. of milk.
Mode Put the wine into a bowl, with the grated nutmeg and plenty of
pounded sugar, and milk into it the above proportion of milk frothed up.
Clouted cream may be laid on the top, with pounded cinnamon or nutmeg
and sugar; and a little brandy may be added to the wine before the milk
is put in. In some counties, cider is substituted for the wine: when
this is used, brandy must always be added. Warm milk may be poured on
from a spouted jug or teapot; but it must be held very high.
Average cost : 2s.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
1 moulded sponge-or Savoy-cake,
sufficient sweet wine or sherry to soak it,
6 tablespoonfuls of brandy,
2 oz. *) ≈ 60 g. of sweet almonds,
1 pint *) ≈ 570 ml. of rich custard.
Mode Procure a cake that is three or four days old,— either sponge,
Savoy, or rice answering for the purpose of a tipsy cake. Cut the bottom
of the cake level, to make it stand firm in the dish; make a small hole
in the centre, and pour in and over the cake sufficient sweet wine or
sherry, mixed with the above proportion of brandy, to soak it nicely.
When the cake is well soaked, blanch and cut the almonds into strips,
stick them all over the cake, and pour round it a good custard, made by
recipe No. 1423, allowing 8 eggs instead of 5 to the pint of milk. The
cakes are sometimes crumbled and soaked, and a whipped cream heaped over
them, the same as for trifles.
Time About 2 hours to soak the cake.
Average cost : 4s. 6d.
Sufficient for 1 dish.
Seasonable at any time.
ALMOND.— The almond-tree is a native of warmer climates than Britain, and is indigenous to the northern parts of Africa and Asia; but it is now commonly cultivated in Italy, Spain, and the south of France. It is not usually grown in Britain, and the fruit seldom ripens in this country: it is much admired for the beauty of its blossoms. In the form of its leaves and blossoms it strongly resembles the peach-tree, and is included in the same genus by botanists; but the fruit, instead of presenting a delicious pulp like the peach, shrivels up as it ripens, and becomes only a tough coriaceous covering to the stone inclosing the eatable kernel, which is surrounded by a thin bitter skin. It flowers early in the spring, and produces fruit in August. There are two sorts of almonds,— sweet and bitter; but they are considered to be only varieties of the species; and though the qualities of the kernels are very different, they are not distinguishable by their appearance.
12 stale small sponge-cakes,
raisin wine,
½ lb. *) ≈ 225 g. of jam,
1 pint *) ≈ 570 ml. of custard No. 1423
.
Mode Soak the sponge-cakes, which should be stale (on this account they should be cheaper), in a little raisin wine; arrange them on a deep glass dish in four layers, putting a layer of jam between each, and pour round them a pint of custard, made by recipe No. 1423, decorating the top with cut preserved fruit.
Time 2 hours to soak the cakes. Average cost, 2s. 6d.
Sufficient for 1 dish.
Seasonable at any time.
For the whip,
1 pint *) ≈ 570 ml. of cream,
3 oz. *) ≈ 90 g. of pounded sugar,
the whites of 2 eggs,
a small glass of sherry or raisin wine.
For the trifle,
1 pint *) ≈ 570 ml. of custard,
made with 8 eggs to a pint of milk;
6 small sponge-cakes, or 6 slices of sponge-cake;
12 macaroons,
2 dozen ratafias,
2 oz. *) ≈ 60 g. of sweet almonds,
the grated rind of 1 lemon,
a layer of raspberry or strawberry jam,
½ pint *) ≈ 285 ml. of sherry or sweet wine,
6 tablespoonfuls of brandy.
Mode The whip to lay over the top of the trifle should be made the
day before it is required for table, as the flavour is better, and it is
much more solid than when prepared the same day. Put into a large bowl
the pounded sugar, the whites of the eggs, which should be beaten to a
stiff froth, a glass of sherry or sweet wine, and the cream. Whisk these
ingredients well in a cool place, and take off the froth with a skimmer
as fast as it rises, and put it on a sieve to drain; continue the
whisking till there is sufficient of the whip, which must be put away in
a cool place to drain. The next day, place the sponge-cakes, macaroons,
and ratafias at the bottom of a trifle-dish; pour over them ½ pint of
sherry or sweet wine, mixed with 6 tablespoonfuls of brandy, and, should
this proportion of wine not be found quite sufficient, add a little
more, as the cakes should be well soaked. Over the cakes put the grated
lemon-rind, the sweet almonds, blanched and cut into strips, and a layer
of raspberry or strawberry jam. Make a good custard by recipe No. 1423,
using 8 instead of 5 eggs to the pint of milk, and let this cool a
little; then pour it over the cakes, &c. The whip being made the day
previously, and the trifle prepared, there remains nothing to do now but
heap the whip lightly over the top: this should stand as high as
possible, and it may be garnished with strips of bright currant jelly,
crystallized sweetmeats, or flowers; the small coloured comfits are
sometimes used for the purpose of garnishing a trifle, but they are now
considered rather old-fashioned. (See coloured plate, V1.)
Average cost : with cream at 1s. per pint, 5s. 6d.
Sufficient for 1 trifle.
Seasonable at any time.
1 pint *) ≈ 570 ml. of milk,
the yolks of 8 eggs,
6 oz. *) ≈ 180 g. of sugar,
1 oz. *) ≈ 30 g. of isinglass,
flavouring to taste of essence of vanilla.
Mode Put the milk and sugar into a saucepan, and let it get hot over a slow fire; beat up the yolks of the eggs, to which add gradually the sweetened milk; flavour the whole with essence of vanilla, put the mixture into a jug, and place this jug in a saucepan of boiling water. Stir the contents with a wooden spoon one way until the mixture thickens, but do not allow it to boil, or it will be full of lumps. Take it off the fire; stir in the isinglass, which should be previously dissolved in about ¼ pint of water, and boiled for 2 or 3 minutes; pour the cream into an oiled mould, put it in a cool place to set, and turn it out carefully on a dish. Instead of using the essence of vanilla, a pod may be boiled in the milk instead, until the flavour is well extracted. A pod, or a pod and a half, will be found sufficient for the above proportion of ingredients.
Time About 10 minutes to stir the mixture.
Average cost : with the best isinglass, 2s. 6d.
Sufficient to fill a quart mould.
Seasonable at any time.
VANILLE or VANILLA, is the fruit of the vanillier, a parasitical herbaceous plant, which flourishes in Brazil, Mexico, and Peru. The fruit is a long capsule, thick and fleshy. Certain species of this fruit contain a pulp with a delicious perfume and flavour. Vanilla is principally imported from Mexico. The capsules for export are always picked at perfect maturity. The essence is the form in which it is used generally and most conveniently. Its properties are stimulating and exciting. It is in daily use for ices, chocolates, and flavouring confections generally.
4 eggs;
their weight in pounded sugar,
butter, and flour;
¼ saltspoonful of salt,
a layer of any kind of jam or marmalade.
Mode Beat the butter to a cream; dredge in the flour and pounded sugar; stir these ingredients well together, and add the eggs, which should be previously thoroughly whisked. When the mixture has been well beaten for about 10 minutes, butter a Yorkshire-pudding tin, pour in the batter, and bake it in a moderate oven for 20 minutes. Let it cool, spread one half of the cake with a layer of nice preserve, place over it the other half of the cake, press the pieces slightly together, and then cut it into long finger-pieces; pile them in crossbars on a glass dish, and serve.
Time 20 minutes.
Average cost : 1s. 3d.
Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.
Seasonable at any time.
To every pint *) ≈ 570 mnl. of cream allow
3 oz. *) ≈ 90 g. of pounded sugar,
1 glass of sherry or any kind of sweet white wine,
the rind of ½ lemon,
the white of 1 egg.
Mode Rub the sugar on the lemon-rind, and pound it in a mortar until
quite fine, and beat up the white of the egg until quite stiff; put the
cream into a large bowl, with the sugar, wine, and beaten egg, and whip
it to a froth; as fast as the froth rises, take it off with a skimmer,
and put it on a sieve to drain, in a cool place. This should be made the
day before it is wanted, as the whip is then so much firmer. The cream
should be whipped in a cool place, and in summer, over ice, if it is
obtainable. A plain whipped cream may be served on a glass dish, and
garnished with strips of angelica, or pastry leaves, or pieces of
bright-coloured jelly: it makes a very pretty addition to the
supper-table.
Time About 1 hour to whip the cream.
Average cost : with cream at 1s. per pint, 1s. 9d.
Sufficient for 1 dish or 1 trifle.
Seasonable at any time.
½ pint *) ≈ 285 ml. of cream,
¼ pint *) ≈ 140 ml. of sherry,
half that quantity of brandy,
the juice of ½ lemon,
a little grated nutmeg,
3 oz. *) ≈ 90 g. of pounded sugar,
whipped cream the same as for trifle No. 1489
.
Mode Mix all the ingredients together, put the syllabub into
glasses, and over the top of them heap a little whipped cream, made in
the same manner as for trifle No. 1489. Solid syllabub is made by
whisking or milling the mixture to a stiff froth, and putting it in the
glasses, without the whipped cream at the top.
Average cost : 1s. 8d.
Sufficient to fill 8 or 9 glasses.
Seasonable at any time.
THE CURE'S OMELET.
"Every one knows," says Brillat Savarin, in his "Physiology of Taste,"
"that for twenty years Madame Récamier was the most beautiful woman in
Paris. It is also well known that she was exceedingly charitable, and
took a great interest in every benevolent work. Wishing to consult the
Curé of— respecting the working of an institution, she went to his
house at five o'clock in the afternoon, and was much astonished at
finding him already at his dinner-table.
"Madame Récamier wished to retire, but the Curé would not hear of it. A neat white cloth covered the table; some good old wine sparkled in a crystal decanter; the porcelain was of the best; the plates had heaters of boiling water beneath them; a neatly-costumed maid-servant was in attendance. The repast was a compromise between frugality and luxury. The crawfish-soup had just been removed, and there was on the table a salmon-trout, an omelet, and a salad.
"'My dinner will tell you,' said the worthy Curé, with a smile, 'that it
is fast-day, according to our Church's regulations.' Madame Récamier and
her host attacked the trout, the sauce served with which betrayed a
skilful hand, the countenance of the Curé the while showing
satisfaction.
"And now they fell upon the omelet, which was round, sufficiently thick,
and cooked, so to speak, to a hair's-breadth.
"As the spoon entered the omelet, a thick rich juice issued from it,
pleasant to the eye as well as to the smell; the dish became full of it;
and our fair friend owns that, between the perfume and the sight, it
made her mouth water.
"'It is an omelette au thon' (that is to say, a tunny omelet), said
the Curé, noticing, with the greatest delight, the emotion of Madame
Récamier, 'and few people taste it without lavishing praises on it.'
"'It surprises me not at all,' returned the beauty; 'never has so
enticing an omelet met my gaze at any of our lay tables.'
"'My cook understands them well, I think.'
"'Yes,' added Madame, 'I never ate anything so delightful.'"
Then came the salad, which Savarin recommends to all who place
confidence in him. It refreshes without exciting; and he has a theory
that it makes people younger.
Amidst pleasant converse the dessert arrived. It consisted of three
apples, cheese, and a plate of preserves; and then upon a little round
table was served the Mocha coffee, for which France has been, and is, so
justly famous.
"'I never,' said the Curé, 'take spirits; I always offer liqueurs to my
guests but reserve the use of them, myself, to my old age, if it should
please Providence to grant me that.'
"Finally, the charming Madame Récamier took her leave, and told all her
friends of the delicious omelet which she had seen and partaken of."
And Brillat Savarin, in his capacity as the Layard of the concealed
treasures of Gastronomia, has succeeded in withdrawing from obscurity
the details of the preparation of which so much had been said, and which
he imagines to be as wholesome as it was agreeable.
Here follows the recipe:—
1494. Take, for 6 persons, the roes of 2 carp;
An American writer says he has followed this recipe, substituting pike, shad, &c., in the place of carp, and can recommend all these also, with a quiet conscience. Any fish, indeed, may be used with success. bleach them, by putting them, for 5 minutes, in boiling water slightly salted.Take a piece of fresh tunny about the size of a hen's egg, to which add a small shalot already chopped; hash up together the roe and the tunny, so as to mix them well, and throw the whole into a saucepan, with a sufficient quantity of very good butter: whip it up until the butter is melted! This constitutes the specialty of the omelet. Take a second piece of butter, à discrétion, mix it with parsley and herbs, place it in a long-shaped dish destined to receive the omelet; squeeze the juice of a lemon over it, and place it on hot embers. Beat up 12 eggs (the fresher the better); throw up the sauté of roe and tunny, stirring it so as to mix all well together; then make your omelet in the usual manner, endeavouring to turn it out long, thick, and soft. Spread it carefully on the dish prepared for it, and serve at once. This dish ought to be reserved for recherché déjeûners, or for assemblies where amateurs meet who know how to eat well; washed down with a good old wine, it will work wonders.
NoteThe roe and the tunny must be beaten up (sauté) without allowing them to boil, to prevent their hardening, which would prevent them mixing well with the eggs. Your dish should be hollowed towards the centre, to allow the gravy to concentrate, that it may be helped with a spoon. The dish ought to be slightly heated, otherwise the cold china will extract all the heat from the omelet.
